6 Must-Try Biryanis Of India

The perfect twinning of fragrant rice grains and unctuous gravies of meat, fish, egg, and vegetables, flecked with dried fruits and nuts, and anointed with a splash of saffron-infused milk, then decorated with a halo of fried onions called birishta—all this is set to meld together as the dish steams on a slow, steady flame. A biryani truly is a wondrous thing. But it is pertinent to note that this quintessential Indian culinary ‘chimera’ has its underpinnings rather far away—in ancient Persia (today’s Iran), to be more precise!

Theories of its genesis abound, with one suggesting that in Persian, rice is called birinj. Others speculate it derives from the low-and-slow cooking method called beriyan, which may have lent the dish its mellifluous name. Regardless of origin, India’s vast and eclectic cuisine offers up a plethora of fragrant biryanis, each referencing the region it hails from, ranging from the subtle northern iterations to the fiery, spice-laden southern styles.

While this is by no means an exhaustive list, we bring you a selection of some of the most popular Indian biryanis—each one imbued with all the right ingredients to celebrate this ‘one-pot dish’ as it should be.

Awadhi Biryani

Awadhi Biryani
Revered as the ‘King of Biryanis,’ the Awadhi or Lucknowi biryani is a subtly spiced, highly nuanced dish with decidedly regal roots. It was first cooked in the kitchens of the Nawabs by royal khansamas (cooks) using copious amounts of saffron and kewra (screwpine) extract, and decorated with gold leaf. Today, Lucknow's Awadhi biryani specialists adhere to the pakki (cooked) method, wherein parboiled, lightly spiced basmati rice is layered in a degh (large pot) with a cooked meat curry. The degh is sealed with flour paste and cooked over low heat (dum) until done. Though primarily a meat biryani, the vegetarian version, called tehri, is no less scrumptious.

Try It Here:

* Kebabs & Kurrie at ITC Grand Central, Mumbai

* Kava at Fairfield by Marriott, Lucknow

* Punjab Grill, Mumbai

* Idris ki Biryani, Lucknow

Hyderabadi Biryani

Packed with the punch of searing-hot Andhra chillies, Hyderabadi biryani differs significantly from the more delicate Awadhi version in that both the rice and meat are raw when layered in the pot. The dish is then set to dum, showcasing the kachchi (uncooked) style of biryani making. A blend of Mughlai and Iranian influences, the Hyderabadi version was once patronised by the Nizam rulers and is today one of the most popular biryanis in India.

Try It Here:

* Kangan at The Westin, Hyderabad

* Sarvi, Hyderabad

* Hyderabadi Biryani House, New Delhi

* Café Noorani, Mumbai

Kolkata Biryani

A curious melange of biryani styles—though leaning towards the Awadhi version—the Kolkata biryani is a moist, succulent preparation. It’s made with thick gravy layered with short-grain, sticky Gobindobhog rice. What sets it apart are the large chunks of potato and whole-boiled eggs—additions not seen in any other biryani style—resulting in a carb-and-protein-rich plate.

Try It Here:

* Sonargaon at Taj Bengal, Kolkata

* Kolkata Biryani House, New Delhi

* Arsalan, Kolkata

* Oh! Calcutta, Mumbai

Dindigul Biryani

Brown-hued and usually made with chicken, Dindigul biryani hails from Tamil Nadu's town of Dindigul. It’s often referred to as Thalappakatti biryani, thanks to the restaurant chain that popularised it since 1957. Eschewing basmati rice in favour of short-grain seeraga samba, this spicy biryani—more pulao-like in appearance—is made by marinating chicken in spices and cooking it in the kachchi style.

Try It Here:

* Spice Haat at Hyatt Regency, Chennai

* Dindigul Venu Briyani, Coimbatore

* Dindigul Thalappakatti Restaurant, Chennai

* Amsavalli Bhavan, Madurai

Bohri Biryani

Bohri Biryani
A spicy delight rooted in the traditions of the Dawoodi Bohra community, this biryani travelled to Mumbai post-Independence with migrating Bohras. Less piquant than Hyderabadi biryani, it uses whole garam masala for aroma rather than heat. Served with a fiery green chilli-mint chutney and a refreshing tomato-onion-cucumber kachumber salad, it strikes a balance of boldness and freshness.

Try It Here:

* The Bohri Kitchen, Mumbai

* Paramount Restaurant, Mumbai

* Tazza, Mumbai

Malabar Biryani

Malabar Biryani
The Mappila community of Kozhikode (formerly Calicut), Kerala, is credited with this subtly flavoured biryani. Also known as Calicut or Moplah biryani, its Arab trade connections are reflected in similarities with Middle Eastern dishes like kabsah or mandi. Cooked with meat or seafood in either the pakki or kachchi style, it is traditionally slow-cooked over coconut husks for a smoky touch. Served with Kerala-style papadam, biriyani chammandi (a coconut-chilli-vinegar chutney), and karakka (a pickle made from Arabian dates).