Can Vegetables Ever Steal The Limelight? Tendril In London Might Convince You

It’s not every day that a small, independent restaurant throws down the gauntlet to London’s dining scene, especially one daring enough to put vegetables centre stage without crutches like fake meats or curry. But then again, Tendril, tucked away in posh Mayfair, isn’t your everyday restaurant. It’s a clever chameleon of a place – by day, sunlight spills into the airy front room, perfect for casual chatter over lunch; by night, the shadow-kissed rear whispers romance. Founded by chef Rishim Sachdeva, Tendril has emerged as one of those destinations for those seeking inventive, plant-forward dishes that skilfully erase any vegan food scepticism. The menu doesn’t adhere to a single script; it’s a playful, confident culinary adventure that refuses to be confined to traditional categories. “It’s the food I like to eat,” says Sachdeva, steering clear of pigeonholes.

Veggies, Elevated Always 

What makes Tendril so exciting? It’s the nuanced alchemy at play here, where each vegetable stands proudly on its own, never overpowered, always elevated. Take, for instance, the smoked aubergine with kalamata olives and tahini, paired with rustic sourdough – it’s the kind of dish that makes you pause, marvel, and question whether this is what vegetables ‘always’ wanted to be but never knew how. ‘It was my favourite… until I remembered everything else on the table,’ I thought, torn between bites. Everything from Tendril’s vision to its sourcing habits screams sustainability, with all ingredients sourced from the UK, a proud celebration of British produce. As Sachdeva puts it, “We’ve worked with Ted’s Veg (UK-based fourth-generation Lincolnshire farmers bringing fresh and seasonal produce) for five years; it’s about relationships.” 

But let me rewind for a second. Where did this all begin? What made a chef trained in classic kitchens ditch meat entirely? “I took a pledge in 2019 and decided to go vegan for one month. During that period, I neither cooked nor ate any meat. It felt so good, I loved it, and I never looked back. I started doing supper clubs from home and pop-ups, realising that, as a chef, it’s far more exciting not having to use meat as a crutch to create dishes," shares Sachdeva. And trust me, when he gets his hands on a butternut squash or turns his imagination toward Jerusalem artichokes, it’s less cooking and more poetry, where flavours hum in perfect harmony and textures keep you guessing. 

Plant-Based But Make It Haute

The smoked celeriac croquettes with harissa, a crisp golden shell giving way to a tender, smoky core, made me pause, mid-chew, just to marvel at it. ‘Is this really celeriac?’ was the internal monologue running through my head. And let’s talk about the leek fritters dunked in curry leaf aioli. It was deep-fried bliss but with a twist, soft, almost creamy inside, a textural delight that I’d link to an onion bhaji after a fancy spa day. These dishes aren’t raised on fanfare or gimmicks; they firmly stand on thoughtful flavour. Sachdeva himself is infectious when talking about his favourites. “The Massaman squash salad with lemongrass aioli is the one we really cherish. The squash is local, and the lemongrass oil is made from surplus in summer, preserving it for the dressings. But there’s also the Jerusalem artichokes with wakame, which is a bit of a surprise hit. We braise them, crisp the trimmings, puree the ones that are too wonky, and pair them with dried wakame from Cornwall. It’s all about maximising what’s in season and local.”

Each dish at Tendril feels like a small celebration. The raw marinara, with lightly smoked tomatoes heightened by umeboshi, served alongside roasted garlic toast with basil puree, is no exception. Tasting it is akin to writing your name in the air – it’s fleeting yet unforgettable, and you wonder why no one’s thought of it sooner.

The last forkful of smoked eggplant mousse melts on my tongue, a whisper of charcoal and earth, and I can’t help but ask Chef Sachdeva about where dining is headed. He leans back, wiping his hands on a linen apron that’s seen its fair share of beet stains. “I strongly feel plant-first dining is going to evolve even further,” he says with certainty. “People care now about what they eat, where it’s grown, and who grows it. The conversation isn’t about fake meat anymore; it’s about vegetables, bold and unapologetic. They’re the main event.” His words linger, much like the umami-rich glaze from the roasted squash that has redefined my idea of comfort food. It’s not just food. It’s a philosophy wrapped in flavour, a celebration of plants not as sidekicks but as undeniable heroes. Sachdeva calls it ‘food evolution.’

Where: 5 Princes Street, Mayfair, London, W1B 2LQ

Contact: +44 7842 797541

Meal for Two: Approx. INR 10,500++