FIRO: The New Face Of Fine Dining In Chennai

Chennai’s culinary landscape has been evolving, and for good reason. Once dominated by traditional tiffin houses and classic coastal fare, the city has, in recent years, welcomed a wave of innovation—driven both by fresh talent and by veterans who are reimagining Indian cuisine with newfound freedom.

Into this dynamic scene arrives FIRO, a 54-seater in RA Puram that draws deeply from memory yet moves boldly toward imagination. FIRO, short for Fire and Roots, is a collaboration between restaurateur Ashish Thadani (of Ciclo Café fame) and the formidable Chef Ajit Bangera, whose tenure at ITC Grand Chola cemented him as one of India’s most influential culinary voices.

Known for the landmark concept Avartana and for shaping Chennai’s fine-dining landscape, Bangera emerges from retirement with a fresh focus, alongside his trusted collaborator from ITC, Chef Abhishek Mody.

Their vision is mirrored in the restaurant itself: warm, elemental, and textural. Earth-toned walls meet handcrafted crockery from Pondicherry and Khurja, while jasmine flowers sit lightly on tables, evoking the fragrance of the local markets where produce is sourced daily. At first glance, FIRO is elegant without being intimidating, contemporary without losing Chennai’s comforting familiarity.

On The Platter 

My dinner at FIRO began with a whisper of rebellion: a yoghurt ice-cream chaat. The velvety sorbet sits atop crisp spinach papdi, dressed with beetroot and coriander chutneys, and finished with bursts of pomegranate. “What is a meal without surprises?” Bangera asks with a smile. It sets the tone for what follows—nostalgia rendered with precision, confidence, and play.

The menu, crafted by Bangera and Mody, has been conceptualised with a certain symmetry, meaning every dish has a vegetarian and non-vegetarian counterpart. This duality allows the chefs to explore India’s culinary memory through two parallel lanes.

Age-old techniques like pickling, fermentation, and smoking co-exist with modern methods like sous vide and dehydration. The result is food that feels comforting and yet entirely new.

One of the stars is the Khameeri bread with Mushroom Pâté, its airy crumb crowned with a creamy, truffle-pearl–studded pâté that delights vegetarians and tempts even devout carnivores away from the equally polished chicken liver version topped with sweetcorn gelée. Another playful bite is PP, prawn fingers coated in rice flakes, crisp and golden, served singly in small glasses.

There are comforting bites too, like FIRO’s pillowy Malai Dumplings paired with a pickled byadagi chilli relish, and Bombay Puffs, a tribute to street food with their masala potato, thecha, and green chilli filling.

A standout vegetarian dish is Palak No Paneer, where paneer is swapped out for luxurious, wobbling burrata. Its creaminess folds beautifully into the garlic-heavy spinach gravy. The dish sings when paired with FIRO’s layered Multani kulcha.

Non-vegetarians will gravitate toward the Not-So-Butter Chicken, made with locally sourced butter and paired with a shahi paratha—subtly sweet, fragrant with saffron and cardamom, and flaky enough to rival dessert. The Gosht Rampuri, cooked old-school with a 72-hour bone broth, is deep and soulful, best polished off with khameeri kulchas.

The meal winds down with a dessert that feels like a love letter to Indian home kitchens. A tender semolina cake, draped in jaggery sauce, served with rich ghee ice cream. 

Craft, Culture, And Character 

FIRO’s bar programme focuses on being local, elegant, and intentional. It is compact by design and prioritises quality rather than quantity. 

Cocktail lovers will appreciate the Kokum Sour, a whisky-based drink that balances tang and depth beautifully, and the Hibiscus Club, a gin cocktail that is floral, crisp, and jewel-toned.

Those drawn to more experimental flavours may try the Terra Twist–whisky with spiced jaggery syrup, dry ginger, and edible camphor. There's also Lilac Lady, brightened with blue pea syrup and served with a delicate paper butterfly perched on the rim.

FIRO is equally thoughtful in its zero-proof offerings. Among the non-alcoholic drinks, the Rooted Fizz stands out with its nannari spritz and the kick of ginger. The Spiced Melon, a fiery watermelon cooler, is refreshing yet bold—an ideal palate cleanser for a spice-forward meal.

ELLE Gourmet's Verdict 

FIRO is a rare restaurant, one that feels rooted in India without being restricted by it. Bangera and Mody navigate the tricky terrain of reimagined Indian cuisine with assurance. Flavours are bold but balanced, techniques modern but respectful, and storytelling is the icing on the cake. 

Where: 57, 2nd Main Rd, Govindaswamy Nagar, RA Puram, Chennai 

Timings: 6 pm to 11.45 pm

Reservation: +91 93840 01434, or you can block a table via their Instagram page for Rs 500 per head.