From Mayfair to Doha—Samyukta Nair’s Global Reign

As a third-generation custodian from the founding family of The Leela Palace Hotels, one might expect Samyukta Nair to be prim and proper. But beneath her poised and elegant exterior lies a humble, fun-loving woman who finds luxury in dining with the family or indulging in simple comfort food like idli, sambar and chutney.  

Hospitality runs deep in Nair’s veins. Her late grandfather, C.P. Krishnan Nair, founded The Leela Group, with her father Dinesh Nair taking over, while her mother, Madhu, helmed operations and design. Under her mother’s guidance, Nair apprenticed in hospitality, learning the industry's intricacies from an early age. But rather than simply carrying forward her family’s legacy, Nair has forged her own path. As the co-founder of LSL Capital, she seamlessly blends her passions for food, fashion, design, and travel, creating immersive dining experiences through her restaurants—Jamavar, MiMi Mei Fair (Chinese), Bombay Bustle (Contemporary Indian), Koyn (Asian), and Nipotina (Italian).

Her journey with LSL Capital began with Jamavar, a concept her father first introduced in 2001 at The Leela Palace in Bengaluru. The vision was simple: to offer an upscale dining experience that showcased the rich and diverse flavours of North and South India as a unified whole. “The menu at Jamavar has always been personal to us as a family,” Nair explains. “It includes many recipes passed down through generations, some of which were personally taught to our Chef Surender Mohan, by my grandmother, Leela Nair, the matriarch of our family. Being a gourmand, her legacy and influence have always been central to our approach.” 

Following the Nair family’s exit from The Leela Group in 2016, they saw a new opportunity: bringing Jamavar to an international audience. With a thoughtful reorientation of the menu and a meticulous approach to design, Dinesh Nair launched Jamavar London in Mayfair’s Mount Street, blending authenticity with global appeal. The name Jamavar is inspired by the Jamavar shawls of Kashmir known for their intricate patterns and craftsmanship, which aligns with the restaurant’s ethos of combining rich tradition with sophistication. 

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Today, Jamavar London is firmly embedded in the city’s culinary landscape and is regarded as one of the finest Indian restaurants in the capital, earning a Michelin star in the Great Britain & Ireland Michelin Guide 2022. Building on this success, Nair and her team launched Jamavar in Doha in 2021 at the Sheraton Grand Doha Resort & Convention Hotel in collaboration with Katara Hospitality. Within three years, it secured its own Michelin star in December 2024. 

As Nair celebrates these milestones, we sit down with her for a candid conversation about her recent win, the creation of her culinary empire in a fiercely competitive space, her fondest family memories, her love for design, and more. 

ELLE Gourmet: Congratulations on receiving a Michelin star for Jamavar in Doha. How does it feel? 

Samyukta Nair (SN): Thank you! It’s an incredibly special moment for all of us at Jamavar and LSL Capital. Receiving a Michelin star at Doha’s inaugural ceremony is a true honour and a testament to our team's hard work and dedication, helmed by our Culinary Director, Surender Mohan. We’re deeply grateful for this recognition, which reaffirms our passion for sharing authentic Indian cuisine with the world. This achievement not only motivates us but also reinforces our confidence in the growing appetite for refined, authentic dining experiences in the region.  

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ELLE Gourmet: What are the must-try dishes for first-time guests at either of the Jamavar outposts?

SN: If you're visiting Jamavar for the first time, whether in London or Doha, there are a few must-try dishes that truly capture the essence of our menu. Start with the Chandni Chowk Aloo Tikki, featuring potato tikkis with spiced white peas, honey yoghurt, and tamarind & mint chutney. Next, enjoy the Kid Goat Shammi Kebab, served with bone marrow sauce, mint chutney and chur chur Paratha. The Old Delhi Butter Chicken is a standout, made with Suffolk corn-fed, char-grilled pulled chicken, fresh tomato, and fenugreek, requiring an eight-hour preparation to achieve its signature depth of flavour. And don’t miss the Dal Jamavar, slow-cooked for 24 hours to bring out its rich, complex taste. These dishes are the perfect introduction to the Jamavar experience.

ELLE Gourmet: Do you think Londoners have become more adventurous with Indian cuisine? 

SN: Absolutely! Over the years, Londoners have become much more adventurous with Indian cuisine, embracing not just the classic dishes but also regional specialities and more complex flavours. People are now more willing to explore authentic and lesser-known offerings. For instance, dishes like Bhatti Ka Octopus, marinated in black pepper, coriander seeds, and Kashmiri red chilli, and served with corn salad and peanut chutney, have been incredibly well-received. The Viceroy’s Caviar Service, paired with our paneer-stuffed baby kulchas, is another dish that has surprised me with its popularity, as it combines luxury ingredients with the bold, rich flavours of Indian cuisine. It's exciting to see how Londoners are embracing these more intricate and creative takes on traditional dishes, making it clear that they are open to exploring the full depth of Indian culinary heritage.

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ELLE Gourmet: What are some of the biggest lessons you’ve learned from your family, and how have they influenced the way you run your restaurants?

SN: My family’s legacy in hospitality has granted me invaluable first-hand insight into the industry. One of the most important lessons I’ve learned is that intuition plays a pivotal role in decision-making. For me, pursuing what you love and being genuinely passionate about your work is essential while continuously striving to surpass the boundaries set before you. Ultimately, nothing is achievable without a strong, cohesive team, and it is crucial to remain humble throughout the journey because what goes around comes around.

ELLE Gourmet: What are your fondest memories of food with your family?

SN: My favourite memories have been made sitting around a dining table with my family, for which I am very grateful. Sunday mornings spent with my late grandfather, Captain Nair, were particularly invaluable. His wisdom left a lasting imprint on me, shaping my values, my perspective on life, and my vision for the future. His larger-than-life vision, driven by purpose and ambition, taught me to dream big while staying grounded in our roots. His love for India and its rich culture inspired me to carry that same pride in my work, to showcase the essence of Indian culture through food. I will always be grateful for those Sundays, as they formed the foundation of my love for hospitality, and taught me the art of bringing people together through food and cemented my deep passion for celebrating India on the global stage.

ELLE Gourmet: If you could bring back one thing from the past (fashion, food trend, or travel experience), what would it be?

SN: The art of leisurely dining when meals were not just about eating but about truly savouring each moment. I’m inspired by the long and indulgent meals, where the focus is on conversation, connection, and enjoying every bite rather than rushing to capture the perfect shot. In today’s fast-paced world, that sense of mindfulness and slower pace is often lost. My goal is to revive that unhurried approach to dining, where food is not just fuel but a celebration of culture, tradition, and the people we share it with.

ELLE Gourmet: What are your future plans?

SN: Venturing into Dubai with Jamavar and MiMi Mei Fair has been an exciting new chapter for us. We’re eager to grow and continue building a community that truly aligns with our values in this dynamic market. Back in England, we’re refining our offerings at KOYN with KOYN THAI while carefully curating the Nipotina story to create a unique and lasting experience. Each step is about evolving and crafting concepts that resonate with our patrons on a deeper level.