Trincas: Where Everyone Belongs

Today, the term ‘inclusivity’ is used more often than not, but beyond the buzzword, there’s almost always a deeper meaning. And one would be wise to unearth what’s at the heart of it. Especially in hospitality, which by definition is meant to be welcoming. So, when we say “inclusive hospitality,” what does it really take to make that welcome truly universal?

But First, A Short History About Trincas

Trincas is almost 100 years old. Established in 1927 by Cinzio Trinca and Joseph Flury (along with his wife, Freida), it began as a Swiss confectionery and tea room on Kolkata’s Park Street — a space with an innate aptitude for hospitality. The fact that it weathered racial segregation, riots, famine, and partition, yet stayed sweet in public memory, means Mr. Trinca did something rare and heartfelt with his brand of welcoming.

In 1959, the establishment switched hands and transformed from a confectionery and tearoom run by a Swiss immigrant into a restaurant owned and run by a Punjabi couple (my grandparents) and their Jewish-Burmese partner, all of whom were either immigrants or refugees in Bengal.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Rupali Dean 🇮🇳 (@rupalidean)

Open To And For All 

In a city filled with people from all over the world, they became an integral part of the cultural fabric. Naturally, they passed that spirit of inclusion on. Under their collective vision, Trincas went on to become a beacon of urban culture, and its reputation only grew, not just in Kolkata but across India. It was, and remains, known for its fabulous food, live music, and warm, attentive hospitality.

In the 1960s and 1970s, teenagers would line up on Park Street for Sunday Jam Sessions, featuring the hottest new bands in the country. Adults booked tables based on charming 'pre-theatre, theatre, and post-theatre' time slots. And then there was the late-night crowd — somewhere between generations — stopping by Trincas for drinks and stories.

I’d say that at some point, the idea of 'inclusivity' gave way to 'exclusivity', but only in the sense that demand began to outpace supply. The welcome, however, never waned. It didn’t matter who you were, how old you were, or which part of the country/world you came from. Some folks only had enough money among friends to buy a single bottle of Coca-Cola (a story I’ve heard dozens of times!). Other nights, royalty might be seated at the next table for the Jam Sessions. Same for dining – you could have saved a month’s salary to dine at this 'exclusive' restaurant, and still been 'included' as long as you were respectful. 

People of all ages and backgrounds felt included at Trincas. And it wasn’t just good business, it was common sense. Emotional loyalty is what endures.

As I researched and wrote about the legacy of Trincas, I realised every urbane Kolkata-based family has at least one story tied to it. It had something to do with the sense of belonging, of being part of something bigger than yourself. 

There are stories of first times at Trincas – dancing, meeting a future partner, hearing a Western band live; stories of how siblings would sneak a visit; stories of birthdays, anniversaries and promotions. Moments that live on because there’s something deeply emotional about hospitality.

Then and Now

Today, Trincas and Kolkata have both changed and stayed the same. The city is known for its warmth (its people and its weather), and inclusivity is woven into its rhythm.

It made sense then, and it makes sense now, that a restaurant in this city would reflect that same openness. Whether hiring or hosting, Trincas continues to operate from a place of respect.

Two years ago, in June 2023, Trincas introduced LGBTQ Karaoke Thursdays as a regular feature (and the pride flag outside flies all year round). When organisers from KolkataPride.org arrived to conduct a 'sensitivity awareness' session with the staff, they stumbled a little through the opening slides. The head steward, ever polite, gently interjected: “We know all this. We know you. We’ve been doing this for years.”

Certain victories come unexpectedly. Sometimes, inclusion isn’t a grand announcement. It’s just a quiet, consistent way of being. Because in the end, you don’t need a handbook to be inclusive. You just need to be a good person.