Kikli Brings Forth Lesser-Known Recipes And Heirloom Dishes Of Punjab

Growing up in Delhi in the ‘80s and ‘90s, and considering what was being served at most North Indian restaurants, it was natural for me to assume that Punjabi food started with Butter Chicken, made a detour with Palak Paneer and ended at Dal Makhani. Turns out, I was miles away from the real picture. Because tucked away in unheard of villages and gali-kooche, there is a Punjab where black lentils are cooked overnight on iron-cast deghs using pathiyas (cowdung cakes), hand-churned white butter is spread liberally on parathas by loving hands and chutneys are ground on the stone base of mud kundas using dandas (mortar and pestle) to extract the maximum flavour.

It is this other Punjab that Chef Amninder Sandhu wants us to meet with pappiyaan and jhapiyaan galore. Her newly opened Kikli in Connaught Place, New Delhi, is a celebration of the lesser-known food of Punjab and recipes that go beyond the usual suspects. Sandhu, who grew up in Assam, says she had visited Punjab a couple of times for work in the recent past and had been overwhelmed with the warmth and generosity of its people. “Although I have an outsider’s perspective of Punjab, my family has held on to the traditional recipes.

I wanted to do something for Punjab, and Kikli is just the beginning,” says the chef, who is also the founder of Bawri in Goa and Mumbai, and Founder Partner – Dining Experiences at Tipai.   

Spaces And Memories

From the moment you enter, you are welcomed with warmly-lit interiors, the beats of dhols, sprinkling of rose petals, and glasses of cool thandai – this is a place that celebrates Punjab to the fullest. The chequered corridor also doubles up as a merchandise store where one can pick up vadiyaan, pickles, naan-khataais and even lassi glasses. 

A hara – a tall oven made for slow cooking – is built at the end of the corridor, which Chef Sandhu uses to slow-cook lentils, chana, and saag (during winter) using pathiya and coal. 

Designed thoughtfully by Arianne Ginwala, the restaurant is neatly divided into three sections, each with an identity of its own, but together, offering a layered experience for the guest. A large courtyard, done up in shades of mustard yellow and pink and with a seating capacity of 44, faces the open kitchen. The opposite side leads to the bar area, which can accommodate 24 people and the main dining area is meant for 66 people. The traditional phulkari motifs on the upholstery, brightly coloured walls and cane lamps transport one to the land of the five rivers. In the main dining room, three old Peepal trees make their presence felt through glass enclosures. 

Lost And Found 

Chef Sandhu vividly recalls her grandmother making Toonhi roti for her aunt, who had just delivered a baby, when she herself was around three years old. “My aunt loved it, and I would also end up getting a bite or two of the roti,” she says. Sadly, it is not a dish you would find in any fine-dining restaurant. But now you will.

Along with Toonhi roti - which the chef describes as the ‘Punjabi cousin of Koki roti’ – one can also find other rare gems on the menu, including Satpura, a delicious seven-layered snack which was served with khatte meethe aloo and choley; and Katlama, a shallow-fried flatbread smeared with chickpea, crushed coriander, anardana, red chillies, and black dal, among others.

Travelling through Punjab for her research, the chef came across cartloads of plums and peaches and decided to incorporate them into dishes here. The Plum Bajra Papdi is a tangy dish of bajra papdi topped with spiced potato, yoghurt and chutney, garnished with plums and the Adoo, a summery fresh salad made of charred peaches, mint, ricotta, falsa dressing and macadamia nuts. 

The Chapli Kebab and Bun Kebab are perfect for those looking for something chatpata, but also not very heavy on the tummy. For the mains, I paired Mushki Roti with Laxmi Chowk Kadhai Mutton – the latter being a standout dish for the beautifully cooked mutton falling off the bone and intense flavour. The Chappanja Tinda stuffed with paneer and spinach will appeal to vegetarians. There’s also a section dedicated to recipes from the royal family of Patiala. 

Make sure you don’t leave without trying one or more of their sweet treats – I had the Jabeli – yes, that’s how it’s spelt – a large, piping hot, dripping with sweetness jalebi big enough for two or three people to share. 

Gin, dry vermouth and pickled onion brine make Brine Baaz a tangy, sweet and sour affair, especially since the three-sip drink comes with three garnishes – radish, carrot and beetroot – each one lending a different taste profile to the cocktail. If you are a true Dilliwali like me and cannot think of a more delightful fruit than falsa, then the vodka-based Falsa Shalsa is your best bet. 

ELLE Gourmet’s Verdict

Take a moment to admire the iron degh when you step inside the restaurant. Later, check out the serving utensils in which Chef Sandhu serves the Kadhai Mutton or the Patiala Shahi Raan. It isn’t just a cuisine which she is trying to revive, but a way of life that connects us to our roots and memories. Tapping my feet to ‘khao peeyo aish karo mitron’ as I ordered another round of cocktails, I felt closer to my own Punjabi roots than I had in a long time. And I have Kikli to thank for that.

Address: Kikli, K 11B, Connaught Outer Circle, K Block, Connaught Place, New Place, Delhi 110001

Time: 12 noon to midnight

Call for reservations: 9910979100

Meal for two: ₹1,500 plus taxes (without alcohol)