If there’s one chef who has truly ignited India’s destination dining movement, it’s Prateek Sadhu. Choosing the mountains over a typical city setup, he built Naar – a 16-seater restaurant in Kasauli, Himachal Pradesh, where Himalayan-forward dining meets the rhythm of six mountain seasons and the primal scent of fire. As someone who has eaten there before, I always tell people it’s an experience you should have at least once. This time, I returned for something even more exciting: a collaborative menu between Chef Sadhu and Chef Chalee Kader of Wana Yook, the Michelin-starred Bangkok restaurant redefining Thai tradition through modern technique. Wana Yook is known for taking the humble Thai street-food staple khao gaeng (rice + curry/mixed dishes) and transforming it into a fine dining, multi-course experience.
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Winter had just set in Kasauli, and the moment I stepped out of the car, the crisp, clean mountain air felt like a reset button. Walking up from the parking lot, I noticed wisps of smoke curling through the air, a sign that something was already cooking at the Salon, the first point of the experience where drinks and the opening courses are served. The entire Naar team was there to greet me, and it felt comforting to see familiar faces – Chef Sadhu and his wife Aashina Kaul, and Executive Chef Head of Research Kamlesh Negi – along with a new joinee, Akshay Tripathi, Co-founder/Partner at Naar.
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The first thing that drew me in was the glowing pit of fire – logs crackling beneath a larger, open-fire take on a traditional chulha. Copper pots bubbled away, and skewers sizzled over the flames, showcasing exactly what Naar is celebrated for. It felt like the ideal way to begin.
The Cocktails
Before diving into the food, I ducked inside for a drink. Johnnie Walker had curated a special cocktail menu for the collaboration, and my attention went straight to the Galgal Gold Sour. The name rang a bell as Galgal – the bright, citrusy Himalayan lemon – is the same ingredient that is used to prepare a dish at Naar called Nimbu Saan. Naturally, I found myself picking that one first. Inspired by the classic Whisky Sour, the sweet-sour drink was the perfect opener to the meal.
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The Naar × Wana Yook pop-up was powered by Johnnie Walker, which stepped in not just as a beverage partner, but as a flavour collaborator. The idea was simple: reimagine what whisky can be in modern dining. By creating cocktails that responded to the chefs’ Michelin-calibre philosophy of heritage ingredients and bold, local flavours, the brand positioned whisky as part of the culinary conversation, and not just bar culture.
Designed to pair effortlessly with Thai-Himalayan flavours, the Johnnie Walker lineup brought a fresh lens to familiar classics — from The Himalayan Highball to the Alpine Boulevardier (a lamb-washed drink that I thoroughly enjoyed), and the Mugolio Mountain, an Old Fashioned reimagined with alpine notes.
The Initial Courses
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We kicked off with Pie Tee, traditionally a Peranakan crisp pastry cup filled with shredded vegetables. Here, it came with smoked green peas and tofu. I finished it in one bite and could easily have eaten ten more. Next came the Pine Skewers – chicken glazed with ginger and tamarind, skewered onto actual pine sticks. Clever, aromatic, and delicious. Before heading into the restaurant, we had the Khao Soi, which is the Northern Thai coconut curry noodle classic. At Naar, it arrived with lamb brain. I was hesitant (not my usual order), but one bite changed my mind. It was rich, silky, and deeply comforting. After three punchy opening dishes, it was time to move into the restaurant for what lay ahead.
Thai Spice And Everything Nice
Stepping inside brought back memories from my earlier visit, back when Naar was still very new, and my fiancé and I were the only diners on a weekday afternoon. Now, almost two years later, the space buzzed with chatter and energy – proof of how much the restaurant has grown. The music had changed too; last time, it was old-school hip hop, and now the room pulsed with throwback pop-rock.
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The next course, Todman, a take on the Thai Tod Mun Pla (fish cakes), came as gucchi (morels) stuffed with fish, paired with a hot, concentrated broth made from burnt vegetables. Absolutely perfect to sip in Kasauli’s 10-degree weather. Then came the Cured Trout with persimmon, guava, turmeric and lime dressing – a sly killer, if I may say so. It starts bright and citrusy, and then hits you with a sudden kick of spice. Although my eyes watered, I kept going back for more. Next, another trout – this time cooked with fingerroot in Chef Kader’s Jungle Curry, the heat dialled up even further.
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This was followed by kaphrao, a playful DIY moment where you build a little taco with corn roti and perfectly cooked pork belly. Then came my favourite, Nimbu Saan, but with a Thai twist – lemon, pomelo, and yogurt foam. The main course featured a large pot of lamb biryani, with the lamb braised in a curry paste from southern Thailand, paired with a sweet-and-spicy grape salad. The best part? The burnt rice stuck to the bottom of the pot, which I unapologetically scraped off and devoured.
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The meal ended on a sweet note with dessert, which arrived in two parts. Burnt Coconut and Husk Ice Cream, and an eggless Warm Pandan Custard with crispies – both thoughtful, delicious, and deeply satisfying.
As the meal ended, I lingered a little longer, soaking in the atmosphere. I watched day turn to night, stars appearing in the clear mountain sky – a rare sight in a city wrapped in smog. While waiting for my driver, I witnessed a special moment in the kitchen: the staff meal. The Naar and Wana Yook teams sat together over simple dishes like momo and thukpa, switched the playlist back to old-school hip hop and rap, popped champagne, opened beers, and celebrated like a family.
In that moment, I realised I was taking away more than another great meal at Naar. It was a reminder of how food anchors people, how it brings a room to life, and how collaborations like this shape the future of India’s culinary landscape.
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