Palatable Plates: How Pop-Ups Are Shaping India’s Dining Scene

A few months ago, I found myself at The Leela Palace Bengaluru, sipping on broth made from burnt vegetables—deep, smoky, and umami-rich—swirled around eggplant and tomatoes in a dish called Sunderkala, a rare noodle preparation from Uttarakhand. “Mix it up, eat, and drink the rest,” Chef Prateek Sadhu told me with his signature enthusiasm. But this wasn’t at his new restaurant NAAR in Kasauli—it was a pop-up at Le Cirque Signature, and it made me promise myself a visit to the real deal.

Pop-ups like these are having a moment. They're no longer just buzzy events; they’re culinary storytelling in action. They bring fresh voices to the table, inspire new audiences, and often serve as a precursor to long-term collaborations.

Why Pop-Ups Work Now

“We’re at a time when food is the new music,” says Sameer Seth, Founder & CEO of Hunger Inc. Hospitality, which runs cult favourites like The Bombay Canteen and O Pedro. “Pop-ups give people a reason to be curious again. They help shift the way Indian food is perceived—whether we’re hosting at home or taking our cuisine abroad.”

And the reach is real. When The Bombay Canteen travelled to Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, they presented their India-inspired menu to a whole new audience—and it was a hit. They’ve done the same in Dubai with Trèsind, and at home, the Pedro’s Pals series at O Pedro invites Goan chefs and restaurants for weekend-long culinary takeovers.

It’s Glamorous But Also Gruelling

Behind the scenes, these events are anything but easy. From sourcing ingredients and prepping staff to navigating an unfamiliar kitchen, every pop-up comes with a steep learning curve.

“Kitchens require a lot more set-up—teams, prep, and menus. Bars have different challenges—licensing, permits, sourcing ice machines in another city…” says Rakshay Dhariwal, Founder and Managing Director of Pass Code Hospitality. Their brand PCO launched the ‘Forbidden Menu’ in October 2024, a cocktail series inspired by culturally-rooted ingredients. Over seven months, it popped up in over ten cities across India, bringing experimental mixology to audiences far and wide.

Understanding the local palate is also critical. “Outside of Mumbai, people are generally more into non-vegetarian food,” says Lakhan Jethani, Executive Chef and Co-Founder of Mizu Izakaya. “But that’s just one layer. We plan everything—from sourcing to kitchen readiness to marketing. Pop-ups are a huge logistical puzzle.”

Curation Is Everything

In a world of too many events, a pop-up is only as good as its story. “We’re intentional about who we partner with. There has to be a strong culinary identity and a shared value system,” says Gauri Devidayal, Co-Founder of Food Matters Group, which runs Magazine St Kitchen. “Above all, we have to love the food.”

That emotional connection matters. According to Shantanu Mehrotra, Executive Chef at Indian Accent, “The best pop-ups come from shared ethos—distinct but complementary visions. It should feel like a celebration, not just a marketing play.”

For diners, that’s the thrill: discovering a New Delhi classic in Goa, a progressive Mumbai kitchen in Dubai, or a heritage cocktail in Jaipur. In a way, these ephemeral dining moments give both chefs and guests a one-night-only intimacy. Something that feels just as special as it tastes.