A Gourmet Guide To Hanoi

Vietnamese cuisine is known for its exquisite balance of flavours and textures, with generous use of fresh herbs, spices, and aromatics. But there are regional variations—while northern Vietnam favours heavier, fattier fare to combat the cold, the sunnier south leans towards lighter and sweeter dishes. Hanoi, the capital city in the country’s north, is a great place to begin your culinary adventure.

Soupy Stories

Often considered Vietnam’s national dish, the traditional noodle soup pho (pronounced fuh) originated near Hanoi in the early 20th century. It’s made with flat rice noodles, a meat-based broth, thin cuts of meat, and plenty of fresh herbs like green onions, basil, and coriander. Beef pho is the classic choice, and you’ll find a perfect rendition at Phở 10 (10 Ly Quoc Su Street). Prefer chicken? Head to Phở Gà Nguyệt (5 Phủ Doãn). Both are located in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and have earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.

Apart from pho, the dish I was most excited to try was bun cha. This was largely inspired by the late Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown Vietnam episode, where he and President Barack Obama relished the dish at the tiny noodle shop Bún Chả Hương Liên. While I didn’t make it to that exact spot, I savoured bun cha at another Bib Gourmand favourite: Bún Chả Đắc Kim (1 Hang Manh). Native to Hanoi, bun cha features juicy pork patties and slices of pork belly in a tangy broth, served with rice vermicelli, herbs, and vegetables.

Between Breads

French colonisation in the 19th century left a lasting mark on Vietnamese cuisine. The introduction of the baguette in the early 20th century eventually led to the creation of banh mi—a short, crusty baguette with a light crumb, split lengthwise and stuffed with meat or vegetables. While banh mi originated in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi has no shortage of excellent options. Banh Mi 25 (25 Hàng Cá) is particularly popular—expect queues, but the service is quick and there are vegetarian choices. (Pro tip: look for the word chay on menus to spot vegetarian options.)

Flavour Profile

One of my favourite dishes in Hanoi was cha ca: grilled or fried fish served with vermicelli, herbs, peanuts, and fresh vegetables. Roll everything up in rice paper, dip it into a piquant sauce, and enjoy a mouthful of vibrant textures and flavours. Try it at Cai Mam (with three locations across the city) or at Bib Gourmand recipient Chả Cá Thăng Long (21 Duong Thanh Street).

Speaking of Michelin recognition, more than 60 restaurants and street food stalls in Hanoi are now listed in the esteemed guide. These include modern Vietnamese fine dining (one-star Gia near the Temple of Literature), contemporary French (Michelin Select French Grill by Jean-François Nulli at JW Marriott Hanoi), and even a steakhouse (Michelin Select Hemispheres at Sheraton Hanoi).

Eat Street

To fully experience Hanoi’s culinary depth, consider a street food tour with Ha Food Tours. I spent over four hours weaving through the Old Quarter’s narrow alleys, sampling everything from bun ca (fish noodle soup) and fish rolls to steamed rice pancake rolls, sticky rice doughnuts, and more.

The tour ends with a glass of bia hoi, or fresh rice beer, best enjoyed at a bustling street-side stall. Brewed daily without preservatives, bia hoi must be consumed within 24 hours. Light and golden, it’s priced between 6,000 and 8,000 dong (₹20–27) per glass—possibly the cheapest beer in the world.

Coffee Culture

French colonists also introduced coffee to Vietnam—but the Vietnamese made it entirely their own. Traditional Vietnamese coffee is brewed using a phin, a drip filter. I got to try it myself during a coffee workshop at JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi, under the guidance of the hotel’s barista. We measured 50g of finely ground coffee into the phin, then slowly poured 100ml of hot water in two batches. The resulting brew is strong and bitter, often sweetened with condensed milk.

Finally, you can’t leave Hanoi without trying its signature egg coffee. Invented in 1946 at Café Giảng in the Old Quarter, it features robust black Vietnamese coffee topped with a frothy blend of egg yolk and condensed milk—it’s a dessert in a cup.