ELLE Gourmet City Guide: Ma Chérie Pondicherry! What to Eat, See And Do

There’s a reason why half of Bengaluru travels to Pondicherry on weekends. This breezy seaside town is an escape from urban frenzy, offering golden beaches, pastel-hued architecture, and a food scene that's hard to resist. 

With a simple promise to enjoy great food and relax, my sister and I packed our bags, hopped on the Puducherry Express, and put our phones on DND. The journey felt long, but it carried the sweet anticipation of slow mornings by the sea, scooter rides, French dessert-fuelled afternoons, and evenings spent exploring with my sister. Here’s everything that made our Pondy escape unforgettable. 

When in Pondy…

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The Puducherry Express pulled into the station on time. Passengers got up from their seats, conversation started humming life back into a sleepy train compartment, and I looked out the window to see the yellow signboard that stated, ‘Puducherry’ in three languages. We stepped off the train and into the thick, salty air, already feeling the pace of life slow down. Outside, the usual flurry of autos, honking scooters and sleepy chatter greeted us. A quick ride later, we were in White Town, checking into our stay and ready to make the most of the weekend.

The first order of business was our ride. We rented a blue Vespa, and after a quick pit stop for fuel, made our way to Surguru restaurant in Heritage Town. The morning sun was unforgiving, the humidity even more so, but we didn’t let it hinder us from getting our fill of crispy masala dosas. The three accompanying chutneys were punchy and fresh but the sambar stole the show. If you want to get in on some good South Indian food, add Surguru to your list.

Soon after, we headed to the Puducherry Art Festival, where we bought kalamkari scarves, terracotta cups and lavender-scented candles and souvenirs that have now found a cosy spot at home.

For dinner, we visited Vélo Café in White Town, a cosy little place dishing out hearty plates. We devoured their spicy marinara pizza and sipped on cold coffee before ambling around the streets. The sea breeze, the faint hum of our scooty, and the salt lingering in the air were pure magic.

Navigating Pondicherry is a breeze. Even if you take a wrong turn, you are likely to land somewhere delightful. Rock Beach was barely a five-minute ride from our hotel, and we couldn’t resist a night visit. The frothing waves crashed against the jagged black rocks, wild and untamed, casting sea spray into the humid air. The sound alone was hypnotic.

The next day, we set an ambitious goal: to catch the sunrise at Paradise Beach. That meant a brutal 3 AM wake-up call, but it was every bit worth it.

But First, Filter Kaapi!

There we stood, at 4 AM, in front of a modest ‘tapri’ in Cuddalore Road, waiting for the owner to complete his morning routine. And what a process it was, making the famous South Indian filter kaapi. 

 The steaming milk cascading from a dangerous height into the brass dabara tumblers, frothing and blending with sugar and coffee until it became something more than a drink—a warm push into the morning. I wandered to the counter, scanning the assortment of rusks and fried snacks, their golden edges tempting in the dim light. 

Around us, a small crowd had gathered—vendors preparing for the day, fisherwomen with baskets in hand and freshly sewn flower gajras in their buns, the sweet smell of mogra mingling with the intense aroma of the coffee, and a few tourists like us. A few people were still groggy, but not us. We had our eyes on the goal.

Paradise Beach awaited. 

In the following days, we had coffee and other beverages from different places around Pondicherry, like the KBS Coffee Bar or the Indian Coffee House, but I’ll always remember the one we had at the tapri even before the birds had woken up for the day.

Comfort Food by the Waves 

Watching a sunrise by the sea feels like a reward for the effort it takes to catch it. We set off, aiming to reach Paradise Beach by 5:30 am, but my excellent navigation led us to Eden Beach instead, a happy accident. 

 This Blue Flag-certified, pristine stretch lies about 7 km from Promenade Beach and a kilometre from Paradise Beach. On our way, we saw women in sarees making kolams on freshly washed porches, their intricate white designs a daily tradition, a quiet act of devotion passed down through generations. As the coconut trees thickened and the salty breeze picked up, we knew we were nearing the shore.

A few silent observers greeted us at the beach, tiny crabs scuttling across the white sand, darting away at the sound of footsteps, a few early risers chasing their step count (yes, at 5 AM), and plenty of crows. We watched the sun rise from the depths of the dark sea, casting a thousand sparkles on the waves as the sky filled with soft, pastel hues.

Post-sunrise, we finally made it to Paradise Beach. The clear blue water and gentle waves invited us to linger longer than planned, chatting away and enjoying each other's company. 

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By the time we left the beach, we were famished. Most restaurants were still on their tea and coffee routine, with only a handful ready to serve lunch, a challenge for hungry people like us. 

Hunger eventually led us to Sicilys, a seaside cafe promising a feast in thirty minutes. We ordered Cajun-spiced corn and creamy garlic penne, washed down with chilled brews straight from their brewery. Try their apple cider or Belgian witbier for that perfect beachside sip.

Dinner was a simple affair at Coromandel Cafe. With its lush interiors and garden seating, it’s easy to see why this spot is a local favourite. We skipped the seafood for a comforting bowl of Cauliflower and Mushroom Malai Curry—its creamy coconut base a satisfying end to our sun-kissed day. 

Gelatos, Tiramisu, and Croissants

Of course, no Pondicherry trip is complete without surrendering to its patisserie charm. We happily chased sweet treats across White Town, starting with GMT (Gelateria Montecatini Terme). The pistachio gelato was impossibly smooth, while Ruchi Di couldn’t stop raving about her Venetian tiramisu flavour.

Café des Arts charmed us with its freshly made crêpes and toasts. You can try out some of the local favourites like Bread & Chocolate in Auroville, La Maison Rose, and Baker Street. Flaky, buttery croissants and desserts worthy of a Parisian bakery window.

Travel Tips

Best time to visit: October to March is ideal, with pleasant weather for beach hopping and exploring.

Getting around: Renting a scooter or a bicycle is the best way to explore the lanes of this seaside town. 

Stay options: Booking early will be your key to a stay that’s close to all the main attractions. Stay in White Town for easy access to the beach.

Carry cash: Keep some cash handy for cafes and boutiques, as some don’t accept digital payments yet.

Don’t forget: Sunscreen, hats, and reusable water bottles.

So Long, Sea!

The time to say goodbye had come. The last day felt bittersweet. As we packed our bags, a part of me longed to stay back, far away from the relentless hustle of city life. The promise of another visit felt inevitable, not just for the buttery croissants or the pink sunsets, but for the quiet joy of shared mornings and spontaneous adventures with my sister. Until next time, Pondicherry.