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Nina Garcia’s Insider Guide to Jaipur

Dive into a travel guide of a vibrant city brimming with life, culture, and plenty of style.

| Nina Garcia
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There are a few cities that have lived up to all my expectations in the way Rajasthan’s famed Pink City did. Jaipur had been on my bucket list for years, and when I finally got to go, it was everything I was looking for and more. From the vibrant saris worn by locals to the sun-drenched façades of the historic buildings that give the capital its nickname, Jaipur is filled with colour and verve.

The city’s hotel and restaurant settings can feel formal thanks to attentive service and grand décor, but like most of Jaipur, the vibe remains friendly and relaxed. No matter where you stay—whether in one of the exquisite 13 rooms at Rajmahal Palace or at an intimate option like Samode Haveli—you will receive a warm welcome. 

Jaipur has a significant fashion following, too. Like all of India, the city is a visual feast steeped in culture, history, and tradition—something from which global fashion tastemakers have taken inspiration for years, from Diana Vreeland to French couturier Giambattista Valli. “Jaipur is the land to which my soul belongs,” Valli once told me. Shopping in Jaipur is an amazing way to get to know the city and its talented artisans. I’m a discerning shopper, and yet I found it hard to restrain myself. After all, I was in the land of superb home goods, jewellery, caftans, and pashminas—how could I resist? The craftsmanship of family-run
shops like the Gem Palace attract customers from around the world.

For this month’s Insider Guide, I’ve included some of my favourite stops from my wonderful trip, plus recommendationsfrom dear friends who are well-travelled industry veterans: Sara Beltran, designer of the gorgeous jewellery brand Dezso by Sara Beltran; Linda Fargo, SVP of women’s fashion and director of store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman; and two resident expats: jewellery designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac, known for her eponymous brand; and former fashion designer-turned-interiors maven Marie-Anne Oudejans, both of whom always welcome visiting friends with open arms.

Below, dive into a vibrant city brimming with life, culture, and plenty of style.

Best Time To Go

Any time between October and March should offer pleasant, cool weather and comfortable
sightseeing in Jaipur, with the peak season running from November to February. Winter provides ideal temperatures for exploring the city’s forts, palaces, and markets.

Sleep

Raffles Jaipur

A gorgeous new hotel that opened in 2024 on the outskirts of the city. Service was exceptional, and the location offers a quiet retreat from the busy city centre.

Villa Palladio Jaipur

One of Oudejans’ gems, designed in collaboration with Barbara Miolini. Opened in September 2022, this nine-room retreat is a quick 30-minute drive from the city, offering an accessible countryside escape for those who wish to experience both settings on their trip.

Rajmahal Palace

A stunning, quaint boutique hotel with colourful Art Deco design. There are only 13 rooms, all equally luxurious. Each is dedicated to a different celebrity who has stayed there- including Princess Diana. Once a royal residence, the palace remains under the purview of the current royal family.

Rambagh Palace

The marble latticework, sandstone balustrades, and lush Mughal Gardens at this hotel will make you feel like a queen. I’ve visited many times for lunch, but on one occasion, it was reserved for a grand wedding. The outside patio was transformed with parasols, and elephants, camels, and horses roamed the grounds, all in celebration. It was an incredible sight.

Samode Haveli

If you prefer a smaller-scale boutique experience, Samode Haveli is both idyllic and centrally located. It’s one of the few places Oudejans recommends that she did not personally design.

Dine

Lunch

Polo Palladio at the Rajasthan Polo Club

Another Oudejans-designed wonder created in collaboration with Palladio owner Miolini and HH Sawai Padmanabh Singh, Maharaja of Jaipur and an avid polo player whose grandfather, HH Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II, founded the club in 1914. Grab lunch and enjoy the vibrant yellow-and-green interiors while taking in the excitement of a live match.

Dinner

The Sarvato

Watch the sunset over the city while sipping a glass of champagne at this elegant new restaurant, recommended by Valli.

The Johri

The menu of seasonal organic vegetarian fare here is always evolving. Expect traditional dishes like tikkas, paneers, and koftas, plus, most notably, delicious naans. It’s a favourite of de Taillac, who has lived in Jaipur on and off for over 30 years.

Nightlife

Bar Palladio

A blue-and-white frescoed restaurant and bar inside the Hotel Narain Niwas Palace, decorated by Oudejans. Known for its ambiance, this is a social hub for locals and expats alike. On one occasion, I ran into Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Balenciaga, with a group of friends who love to get together here. With tented canopies in the courtyard, it really is the perfect place for large group dinners or drinks. And you must make sure to stop by the shop for all kinds of souvenirs and trinkets.

Polo Bar

Old-school and classic, the ambience is reminiscent of a Wes Anderson movie set.
This original Polo Bar takes its inspiration directly from the sport. Fargo calls it a “can’t-miss.”

Discover

City Palace Complex

This seven-story private home of Jaipur’s royal family also serves as a public museum—and it is simply amazing. “It’s my favourite palace,” notes Fargo. “With its famous pink façade, the candlelit hall of mirrors, and my favourite room in the world, the China blue-and-white aerie.”

The Jaipur Centre for Art (JCA)

Opened in 2024, the JCA brings together local culture and contemporary art. Co-founded by Singh and Noelle Kadar, it’s located within the City Palace Complex.

Jaipur centre for art

Jaigarh Fort

Set on a peak in the Aravalli mountain range, and recommended to me by Samir Kasliwal— whose family owns the iconic jewellery emporium Gem Palace—the historic Jaigarh Fort offers sweeping views overlooking Amber (Amer) Fort, another important relic worth visiting.

J A I P U R india 2008 jaigarh fort

Shop

The Gem Palace

If you go to India, you can’t miss shopping for jewellery—and if you go to Jaipur, you must visit this historic institution. The ninth-generation, family-run shop is adept at cutting and
polishing precious and semi-precious stones, which are then affixed using traditional Indian gold settings and filigree. The famed shop is rich with history—from establishing itself as court jeweller for the royal family of Amber in the 1700s to becoming the official jeweller of the British Viceroy in 1939, Gem Palace has adorned much of the world’s aristocracy.

Andraab

This shop is to die for. Recommended to me by my dear friend, Sara Beltran, who spends a lot of time in India, here you will find the most beautiful cashmere and the best pashminas in all of Jaipur. Although pricey, this is one of my favourite stops around the city.

Princess Diya Kumari Foundation (PDKF)

A curated lifestyle shop where you can find anything and everything from local Indian artisans, including caftans, pyjamas, handbags, Christmas ornaments, and more. Apart from the wonderful shopping, it’s also a foundation built to empower and mentor women. By shopping for your little treasures, you’re also supporting nonprofit initiatives in rural communities.

Trunks Company

Founded by Paritosh Mehta, this atelier creates incredible custom leather trunks that showcase the talents of local artisans. You must make an appointment to visit.

A Couture Trunk Maker Marks Its 20th Anniversary

The Palace Atelier

Recently opened in March 2024, the Palace Atelier is the latest of Princess Diya Kumari’s endeavours. The beautifully designed concept store, nestled inside the City Palace, offers an immersive experience where you can shop a curated selection of products by Indian artisans.

IDLI by Thierry Journo

Thoughtfully curated, this is a can’t-miss stop on your trip to Jaipur. Owned by French homeware and fashion designer Thierry Journo, here you will find a unique selection of contemporary home and fashion pieces to choose from while taking in the exquisite store’s interiors.

Saurashtra Impex

This is textile heaven—just ask Anna Sui, Valli, and print master John Robshaw, all of whom have used the store’s fabrics. The unassuming shop spans four levels of floor-to-ceiling reams in every possible pattern and design, offering ready-made pieces and custom orders. I picked up a pair of pyjamas and a colourful tablecloth that will be perfect for dining outdoors in the summer.

Nila House

Another one of Beltran’s top picks, and for good reason. The Nila House opened in 2019 as a centre for cultural exchange, with open studios, showrooms, and artist-in-residence spaces. Not only do they have the most gorgeous linens and accessories available for purchase, but you can also learn some of the local techniques in their workrooms. The building, once a private family residence in the 1940s, is just fabulous and only adds to the experience.

NILA HOUSE JAIPUR - NOV 2023

Khanoom Jaipur

Both Oudejans and Valli recommend this local pottery boutique, so you know it must be good. Lead-free and nontoxic, the pieces include charming hand-painted dishes, cake stands, and pitchers.

Royal Gems & Arts

Housed inside Saras Sadan—an 18th-century Haveli—this jewellery business is a short walk from the iconic Hawa Mahal Palace. It’s run by the ninth-generation owner Santi Choudhary and his wife, Shobha, descendants of the city’s founding families, who have supplied exquisite jewels to royalty and leading collectors. Schedule in advance; the atelier is open by appointment only.

Read the original story on ELLE USA. 

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