This Former Church in Copenhagen Draws 200 People for a Communal Feast

The Scandinavian winter lingers, with temperatures stubbornly stuck in the single digits on a dreary December evening. I stand in line at 6 p.m. with some 200 others along Vesterbro’s Sønder Boulevard—an avenue dotted with design shops and brewpubs in southwest Copenhagen—waiting to step inside Folkehuset Absalon. Once a church, now a vibrant community centre, its modest spire and striking red brick facade blend seamlessly with the surrounding apartment blocks.

Tonight, It's My Dinner Destination

Inside, the scene is a stark contrast; a lofty, high-ceilinged hall (called Salen) is bathed in soft pink, framed by flowing curtains, and anchored by a striking red arched stage. My travel companions and I settle into a corner at one of four long, colour-coordinated communal tables. A quick scan of the room reveals a medley of voices—Danish, English, and accents I can’t quite place. Locals and travellers blur into one, all here for the same reason: fællesspisning, which refers to a tradition of eating together.  

“We believe being social is vital to a happy life,” says Arendse Würgler, communications expert at Absalon. “The dinners are designed to recreate the sense of togetherness we experience when sharing a meal with family and friends at home.” She explains that everyone plays a role in making the dinners happen—collecting food from the chef, passing dishes around, slicing bread, and pouring water for the table. This shared participation fosters natural interactions, often sparking deeper conversations.

And that’s exactly how the evening unfolds. I join a pair of volunteers heading to the kitchen, where we’re handed trays of bread and rustic bean spread, along with deep bowls of chopped tomatoes, onions, cabbage, and carrots tossed in garlic and ras el hanout (Moroccan spice mix). There are also potatoes cooked with chive pesto and spinach—simple, hearty fare meant to be shared. Back at our table, the meal is passed around, devoured between bursts of laughter and easy conversation, just as intended.

Copenhagen has long cemented its status as a culinary heavyweight, ever since René Redzepi reshaped the gastronomic landscape with noma. While the city boasts more Michelin-starred restaurants and the World’s 50 Best spots than one can count, dining out has become increasingly expensive. That’s precisely why places like Absalon feel like a breath of fresh air—where a meal costs just DKK 60 - 100 (INR 750 - 1,250), depending on the day.

Absalon’s story begins with its transformation from a church into a cultural hub, reborn with a social mission at its core. In 2014, Lennart Lajboschitz, the founder of the Danish variety store chain Flying Tiger Copenhagen, invested over DKK 10 million to acquire the space, which underwent a thorough remodelling and opened to the public a year later. “Food is a powerful way to bring people together,” says Würgler. “We all need to eat, and most of us enjoy a good, affordable meal without the hassle of grocery shopping, cooking, or cleaning.” The dinners, which require prior booking online, attract a diverse crowd—families with young children, students, elders, and tourists alike.

“It’s about dining inexpensively—sharing a table, a meal, and perhaps a conversation with people you’ve never met before,” says sociologist and local food guide Guxi Maria Abel, who frequents the space. “It has definitely shaped the dining scene by making basic, affordable communal dining cool,” she adds. “You don’t need fine dining to be hip.”

While Absalon’s dinners with weekly menu updates are the main draw, often selling out days in advance, breakfast and lunch are quieter and available only for walk-ins. Breakfast prices vary by order, while lunch costs DKK 60 (INR 750) per plate, with a daily changing menu that includes vegetarian, and sometimes even vegan options.

Its communal spirit extends beyond food, with four event spaces hosting over 100 activities weekly, from yoga and ceramics to dance, game nights, concerts, and talks. For Abel, the operas stood out. “Opera is seen as posh and isn’t popular among many young people,” she says. At Absalon, young opera singers performed not just on stage but moved among the tables, where guests sipped beer and wine—a refreshingly unorthodox experience. “Absalon took something traditionally exclusive and made it fun, accessible, and welcoming to all.”

Over the past decade, Absalon has inspired other venues across Copenhagen to embrace fællesspisning in their own way. Kafa x hosts weekly vegan dinners, while Ku.Be in Frederiksberg offers child-friendly meals. In Nørrebro, the social enterprise Send Flere Krydderier serves African and Middle Eastern-inspired dishes in a family-friendly space.

As I return my tray to the kitchen, I pass a group of dancers preparing for a post-dinner concert. I think back to all the trendy spots I visited in the city—each memorable in its own way. But on this cold night, dinner at Absalon feels especially warm.