Vineyard Hopping In South Africa’s Franschhoek

I am handed a glass as I step onto South Africa’s only wine tram, setting the stage for what is to follow. There are wooden seats, open windows, a crisp breeze and passengers (read wine lovers) with just one objective—to go from one vineyard to another. I perch near a window as the double-decker tram chugs through rolling vineyards framed by majestic mountains and lush foliage. As wine is poured into glasses, I eagerly wait for my turn. Soon, I am sipping Shiraz rosé from the Allée Bleue vineyard as the server guides me through the notes of the pale pink liquid and its origins.

I am in Franschhoek near Cape Town, which is part of the Cape Winelands, one of South Africa’s most celebrated wine regions that produces not just some of the best wines in the country but the world. It is no surprise that the wine-making tradition here dates back to the 17^th century. My agenda is to explore a couple of vineyards, and there is no better way to do it than aboard the Franschhoek Wine Tram.

Running on more than a century-old vintage tracks along five different routes, this tram works like a hop-on, hop-off service, with each line taking wine lovers from six to eight estates. I begin my journey along the navy line from the Groot Drakenstein terminal, a tiny, picturesque, almost fairy-tale-like station. 

South Africa’s Second Oldest Wine Estate: Boschendal

Going at a gentle pace along the vineyards past the Simonsberg and Drakenstein mountains, we arrive in ten minutes at our first stop—Boschendal, where a bus is waiting to whisk us inside. I learned on the tram that this is the second-oldest wine estate in South Africa, dating back to 1685.  Walking past giant oak trees, we arrive at The Deli— a farm cafe where tables set outdoors are loaded with spaghetti, fries, pizza and Savanna cider made with fresh produce from their garden. Then, it’s time for what I am eagerly waiting for—the wine tasting.

I settle down at a tasting table laid out under the shade of centuries-old oaks. I am given a choice of six kinds of wine pairing and tastings, from cheese, chocolate, charcuterie to even oysters. I opt for the chocolate and wine pairing from their 1685 range. The server first pours the whites. The Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in steel tanks, has notes of fruits like passionfruit, guava, green apple, and pear. The Chardonnay that follows is softer and more complex, balancing citrus and creamy oak.

Then come two red wines—the Pinotage and Shiraz. Pinotage is a South African grape variety developed in the 1920s by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsaut. It produces deep-coloured, full-bodied red wine. The one I taste has rich notes of red and black currants, while the Shiraz is peppery with a hint of dark berries. Although I did not care too much for the Belgian chocolates, they were paired with. This wine tasting costs ZAR ₹1,193).  

A vineyard visit is incomplete without picking up some good wine to sip at leisure back home. I decided to take a bottle of Black Angus, a bold, ruby-coloured Shiraz red wine that is very popular.

Vrede en Lust Wine Estate

Then it’s time to get back on the tram. I opt for the upper deck, letting the wind ruffle my hair as announcements are made about upcoming vineyards. Our destination is the Vrede en Lust wine estate, which was set up in 1688 against the backdrop of the gorgeous Simonsberg slopes.

Walking in, my eye catches a sea of solar panels on the roof—environmental sustainability is as important here as the excellent Bordeaux and Malbec wines for which this estate is famed. The Tasting Room is large, but instead of sitting indoors, I opt to sip wine outdoors in the company of the surrounding mountains and the Shiraz vineyards that have turned a beautiful red and rust colour.

I go for the Flagship tasting, which includes five wines from their flagship series—three whites and two reds, costing ZAR 150 (₹725). First comes Chardonnay, next is Chenin Blanc and then Barrique, which stands out for me. This is a Bordeaux-style rich and complex white wine that’s a blend of 90% Semillon and just 10% Sauvignon Blanc. It has notes of minerals and goes best with seafood. Our server tells us that this wine is served at three Michelin-star restaurants in Belgium.

Here too, I end up buying a bottle (the Barrique, of course) for home to carry back a little bit of the Cape Winelands with me. It will remind me of that delightful day of shuttling in style between estates in one of the world’s most scenic wine regions.