Shaken, Stirred & Served: Inside The Mind Of Japan’s Master Mixologist Hiroyasu Kayama

Hiroyasu Kayama's love affair with mixology began at the age of 20 when he started work as a barback in a Okura Hotel in Tokyo. When he finally opened Bar BenFiddich in 2013, it didn’t take long for the intimate, eight-seater to become a go-to in Tokyo’s thriving cocktail scene. His uniquely themed bar ranked 25th in the World’s 50 Best Bars and 5th in Asia’s 50 Best Bars (2024) transports guests to a whimsical, apothecary-themed world. 

What sets Hiroyasu apart is his 'farm to glass' philosophy where he uses ingredients from his family-owned farm in Saitama, 90 kilometres from Tokyo. Everything from his farm, from juniper berries to wormwood, anise to fennel, and mint, goes straight into creating his unique farm-to-glass cocktails. Even the twigs and stems feature as stirrers! 

Mumbai recently experienced his artistry firsthand during a special bar takeover at Yauatcha BKC, a Chinese dim sum teahouse in Bandra. Excerpts from our chat…

ELLE Gourmet: You are a farmer, mixologist, bar owner, a YouTube sensation. Which of these roles do you identify the most with?

Hiroyasu Kayama (HK): Definitely the mixologist. I love making cocktails. I am not a businessman. My bar is very small with only 16 seats. Since I make the cocktails, it remains closed when I travel. People tell me to open a new bar so I can make more money. But I want to keep it small. I am 41 years old. I want to keep bartending 10, 20, 30 and even 40 years from now.  

ELLE Gourmet: Why is your bar named BenFiddich? It sounds Scottish.

HK: I know. But there’s a meaning to it. Ben means mountain in English and Fiddich is deer. In Japanese mountain is ‘yama’ and deer is ‘ka’ My family name is Ka Yama. That’s why the bar is called Bar BenFiddich.

ELLE Gourmet: That’s very interesting. You are popular for your ‘farm to bar’ concept. How does it work in a bar setup?

HK: I was born on our family farm in Saitama Prefecture, an hour's drive from Tokyo. I go there twice a week, to work on the farm, and harvest fruits and vegetables for my signature cocktails at my bar. I make homemade absinthe with wormwood, anise, juniper berries, chamomile, fennel seeds, mint and yuzu that grow on the farm. Plums, apricots and apples from the farm are made into a juice to be used in the bar. Even twigs and flowers found on the farm are used as garnishes and mixing spoons. So nothing goes to waste. 

ELLE Gourmet: What do you think of the bar scene in India?

HK: I have been to India numerous times since my first visit in 2018. The bar scene here is growing with many new bars opening every day. There’s a big energy and the drinks pack a punch. Also, unlike Japan, India has a young population. It’s a huge advantage. 

ELLE Gourmet: You are known for your herbal drinks. What are the spices you love working with?

HK: I love both Indian and Japanese spices in my cocktails, particularly fennel, star anise and cardamom.

ELLE Gourmet: And Indian food?

HK: I love Indian curries, biriyani, butter chicken and of course, chai. I always take back feni, cashew and spices from Goa. On a previous visit, I tasted the mahua flower and learnt how to make the local mahua spirit.    

ELLE Gourmet: Let’s talk about your favourite drink.

HK: After a long day at the bar I always make myself a highball with whisky and soda. I also like absinthe with water.   

ELLE Gourmet: Which bars do you recommend when we come to Tokyo, other than Bar BenFiddich?

HK: I would recommend two of my favourites. After work, I always end up going to A Bar Sleeping Tales. It’s cosy and open till 5 am. They make very creative cocktails. The other one is The SG Club. It’s run by a friend and they make the best clarified Bloody Mary. 

ELLE Gourmet: What do you do when you are not rustling up great cocktails?

HK: I love cooking. Just last week I made biryani at home. It was okay. I think I need a lot of practice. I also like to be at my farm working in the field, tending to my vegetables, harvesting.

ELLE Gourmet: Lastly, what are you most excited about these days?

HK: I love chai and I am working on making a chai cocktail at my bar. It will have some absinthe and whiskey.