With Nostalgic Flavours, Comorin In Mumbai Reminds Us Why Comfort Food Will Never Go Out Of Style

While a new wave of restaurants continues to draw attention with inventive bites and craft cocktails, it’s the comforting, familiar flavours we find ourselves returning to. Whether it’s unwinding after a long day or catching up with friends and family, there’s something undeniably uplifting about indulging in regional Indian cuisine that reminds you of home. That’s exactly the experience Comorin delivers. After a successful seven-year run in Gurugram, the restaurant—part of the hospitality group behind Indian Accent, Hosa, and Fireback—has finally opened its doors in Mumbai. With a hearty, flavour-packed menu of 46 thoughtfully curated dishes, I had to stop by for a taste.

The Interiors 

Set within Nilaya Anthology, Mumbai’s latest luxury design destination, Comorin is a seamless extension of the space. A warm yet glam wooden bar—well stocked and bathed in moody lighting—greeted me at the entrance. Considering Comorin Gurugram has bagged the ‘Best Restaurant Bar in India’ title at the 30 Best Bars India awards for four consecutive years, it’s fitting that the bar takes centre stage. 

The original design concept was envisioned by Rishiv Khattar, a director at EHV International, and was brought to life by London-based design firm Russell Sage Studio. The duo reunites for Comorin Mumbai, offering a fresh interpretation of the brand’s visual identity. Blush pinks and brown hues give the space an inviting and contemporary feel. The layout follows a curved, organic flow, divided into three key sections: plush wooden seating on either side for couples or small groups, and a long community table that runs through the centre, guiding guests toward the Private Dining Room.

Beyond the PDR lies The Orangery—a verdant, biophilic space that serves as the entrance to Nilaya Anthology. While currently open only for views, it’s set to become a venue for private events soon. Despite its curved design, Comorin can comfortably host up to 105 guests.

The Bar 

Helmed by mixologist Varun Sharma, the bar programme is both experimental and approachable. Expect Comorin’s signature techniques—think sous vide infusions, lacto-clarified cocktails, and drinks on tap—as well as a few inventive house-made beverages. 

I began with the Neer More 2.0, a green chilli-infused tequila cocktail with ajwain liqueur, coriander foam, and the tang of masala chaas. The Walnut Sour, made with walnut-infused bourbon and cassia, was another standout. Their batch-bottled cocktail collection is impressive too, with options like Coffee Manhattan, Smoke & Agave Martini, and Khus Vermouth Negroni. But what truly won me over were the in-house liqueurs—from cherry and coffee to the surprisingly addictive ajwain version.

Not drinking? You won’t feel left out. The zero-proof menu features mocktails like the Carrot & Cilantro (with beetroot cordial and lime), and the Asian Blend Cold Brew – Tea with blue pea, Earl Grey, and lavender.

Wine enthusiasts will love the accessible wine programme curated by Kevin Rodrigues, Head of Wines at EHV. Over 50 labels are available by the glass, making it easy to explore without committing to a bottle.

The Food

Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan brings together comforting regional flavours and inventive combinations from across India. It features the restaurant’s beloved signature dishes alongside a few Mumbai exclusives, thoughtfully curated for the city’s discerning palate.

The moment I opened the menu, my eyes were instantly drawn to the Dal Pakwaan. Now, I’m not Sindhi—but my partner is. Strangely enough, it’s not a staple at their home (they’re more of an aloo tuk and kadi chawal kind of household). So, naturally, I had to order it. I’ve had my fair share of Dal Pakwan at various Sindhi homes over the years, but I can honestly say that the one at Comorin tops them all.

I then moved on to Smoked Kathal Galawat served with mango chilli chutney—a dish you’ll enjoy even as a non-vegetarian—the jackfruit’s texture is that good. The creamy Haleem, paired with crispy Bakarkhani bread, is another heartwarming option, and the Green Chilli Prawns come with unexpected spicy and tangy flavours, complemented by crunchy Mizoram Black Rice for a textural contrast. Other must-tries include Bheja Fry with Khasta Roti, Andhra Gongura Chicken with Crispy Murukku, and Raw Banana Dahi Vada with Mint Motichoor.

The mains are equally tempting and come in hearty portions. I enjoyed the Himachali Cha Gosht with Steamed Rice and Til Pudine Ki Chutney as well as the Champaran Mutton with Sattu Parantha and Ole Ki Chutney, but the real winner for me? The Banana Leaf Bhetki with aromatic and flavourful coconut masala forced me to let go of my cutlery, dig in with my hands and devour it unabashedly. 

Comorin’s sweet offerings are just as memorable. The signature Cheeni Malai Toast—a nostalgic nod to Indian toast culture—gets an elevated twist with honeycomb, and to my surprise, it isn’t even that sweet. Pro tip: Ask for coffee liqueur and savour it while you indulge in this wonderful dessert. The Honey Caramel Gulgule with custard and ginger candy ice cream is another indulgent treat that’s both playful and comforting.

ELLE Gourmet’s Verdict

In a city that’s always chasing what’s new, Comorin reminds us that familiar flavours can still surprise us. With comforting dishes that take you on a culinary trip across India, albeit with a modern twist, the restaurant is a breath of fresh air, reminding us why we will always choose nostalgia over novelty.