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There’s a particular kind of electricity in the air when a city gathers to celebrate its culinary stars. In Dubai, that energy came to a head at the much-anticipated Michelin Guide ceremony, a moment of recognition not just for restaurants, but for a culture that has rapidly carved out its place on the global gastronomic map.
Shortly after a soulful Emirati lunch at the Michelin Guide restaurant, Gerbou, I made my way to the much-anticipated Michelin Guide ceremony at Address Sky View in Dubai. The excitement was tangible. For two days, we’d been eating our way through some of the city's finest Michelin-star restaurants, wondering which ones would retain or elevate their stars. All the chefs who were invited were part nervous, part excited.
Celebrating its 125th anniversary this year, the Michelin Guide is one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious culinary authorities. Since its inception, Michelin has been rating restaurants anonymously through a three-star approach, in addition to introducing the Bib Gourmand, which highlights first-class, affordable dining options.
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As an Indian, I was rooting for Trèsind Studio, helmed by Chef Himanshu Saini in Dubai, which already boasts two Michelin stars. I had dined there just two nights prior. The 18-course menu titled ‘Rising India’ was theatrical and unlike any Indian tasting menu I’d experienced. From a ghee-roast crab served in a burnt cinnamon stick to noodles made from king oyster mushrooms, and a dish prepared at our table, inspired by a traditional Kerala sadhya, each course paid tribute to the country’s rich regional tapestry.
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When we bumped into Chef Saini after the welcome champagne just before the ceremony commenced, he smiled nervously. “I’m okay for now,” he said. “But once I’m in the room, that’s when the nerves will kick in.”
The Winner Takes It All
The ceremony began. Names were announced, restaurants making their debut in the grand Michelin universe and those retaining their stars. Just as the host announced we were at the end of the ceremony, a wave of worry set in. ‘Was that it? What about the top honours?’ That’s when Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide, took the stage and dropped the big news: for the first time ever, Dubai was about to have its very own three-star restaurants.
FZN by Björn Frantzén was up first, and I was thrilled, having dined there the previous night. The experience was precise and poetic, showcasing modern European fine dining with Japanese influences. But it wasn’t just about the food. The entire performance, from the kitchen to the staff and seamless service, was stellar, moving together like a perfectly tuned orchestra. That’s what made FZN feel truly worthy of the three stars.
What made the moment more spectacular was that the restaurant earned three stars within its first year of opening, making Frantzén the only chef in the world to lead three restaurants with three Michelin stars (Frantzén in Stockholm and Zén in Singapore earned three stars in 2018 and 2021, respectively).
India Shines Bright
While I was elated for the FZN team, I was still wondering, ‘What about Trèsind Studio?’ My heart almost sank as I thought, ‘Did they lose their stars?’ But then, the screen lit up. A video played, showing Poullennec personally delivering the news to Chef Saini and his team: Trèsind Studio had been promoted to three stars. Everyone in the room erupted. It was the night’s most electrifying moment. (Yes, Chef Saini knew all along and pretended like he didn’t when we met him earlier. He may as well try his hand at acting, too.)
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“Well, I did sign an NDA,” he laughed when I caught up with him later. Still processing the moment, he said, “It’s an amazing feeling. I think we have contributed to the culinary history of our country, and this will open doors for many Indian chefs to present Indian food to the world with flair and ingenuity. I congratulate all the chefs in India. It’s not a victory that belongs to just us, but also to Team India.” I was personally very proud to witness and celebrate this glorious moment on a global platform.
This year’s Michelin Guide Dubai features a total of 119 restaurants, with a particular focus on Indian cuisine and its renowned chefs. Besides Trèsind Studio, Avatara, an all-vegetarian restaurant by Chef Rahul Rana, retained its one star. Jamavar, led by Chef Surender Mohan, earned its first star, and Indya by Vineet, retained its Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition. The Guide spotlighted several Indian and Indian-origin chefs across categories: Shiv Menon of Boca received the Sommelier Award, and Abhiraj Khatwani of Manāo won the Young Chef Award.
Trèsind Studio’s historic three-star win—on just its fourth appearance—marks a milestone not only for Dubai’s dining scene but for Indian gastronomy at large. In a city that offers its diners the world on a plate, this recognition feels like the start of something bigger: a new era of storytelling, identity and pride through Indian food. But it also leaves us with a lingering question—now that Indian cuisine is earning its place on the world’s most prestigious stages, will the Michelin Guide ever make its way to India?