Women Of Awadh: Celebrating Culinary Heroines At Mumbai’s Waarsa

The keys to the kitchen have long been tied to a woman in our lives. But rarely do they get the agency behind it. The money and fame often go to the chefs in professional kitchens, the majority of them being men. Does it mean that the women home chefs should live behind a curtain of obscurity? Absolutely not. And writer/curator Anubhuti Krishna and home chef Sheeba Iqbal agree. With their latest collaboration at Waarsa by Chef Rahul Akerkar and Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH), they are bringing 'Women of Awadh', a limited-edition showcase which shifts the spotlight to the women who have quietly preserved, nurtured and evolved Awadhi cuisine across generations.

Presented in two distinct chapters, each grounded in lineage, ritual, and inherited intuition, the showcase is a celebration of the flavours that rarely make it to restaurant menus, yet remain deeply rooted in everyday home kitchens. Through their individual menus, Anubhuti and Sheeba present not reinterpretations, but revelations, reminders that real Awadhi food is as much about feeling as it is about technique. It is about memory, restraint, instinct, and sometimes, simply listening. 

Home, Faith, and Shravan

Anubhuti Krishna

Anubhuti Krishna’s menu at Waarsa draws from the quiet strength of Kayastha homes in Lucknow, shaped by generations of women who cooked not out of duty, but with devotion. Crafted in honour of Shravan, every dish is made without onion, garlic, or ginger, echoing seasonal and spiritual customs shared between Mumbai and Lucknow.

“We have created all dishes sans onion, garlic and ginger to honour local customs and beliefs, both in Mumbai and in Lucknow,” she says. “Vegetarian festive food in Awadh is also very similar to fasting/Shravan food here and there was no doubt from the beginning that we, I, along with Chef Rahul and Chef Mukhtar, will honour this spirit in this festival.”

Dishes like Nimona, Soya Methi ka Saag, Khoya Matar ki Sabji, and Rasey ke Aloo speak of an inherited calm, served alongside Kheere ka Raita, a variety of breads, and Khade Masale ka Pulav. Traditional sweets like Besan ka Halwa and Makhane ki Kheer end the meal on a tender note.

“For aeons, our food has been attributed to our khansamas and halwais, and not without reason, for their contribution to our cuisine is invaluable. But away from the public eye, carrying forward the legacy of Awadhi home kitchens are the women. They are the keepers of generations of culinary wisdom but seldom get credit for their knowledge, techniques, and understanding of every little nuance," Krishna reflects. She sees the Women of Awadh series as a way to correct that narrative.

Krishna’s reverence for everyday meals stems from the women in her family. When asked if there was a particular dish or ritual that became a turning point in her food journey, she says, “It is impossible to pinpoint one moment because, since I can recall, I have seen these women cook every meal with as much love and dedication as any special meal. What I have learnt the most from them is that home-cooked food is what nurtures the body and soul in equal measure and is a key factor in the overall well-being of someone. And that has been my philosophy all along, be it when I cook a hot meal for my kids, fry hot puris for my parents, or now that I make everything from scratch for you, my guests. To serve and feed someone with love is the biggest joy for me – and that has come from them.”

A longtime advocate for the vegetarian richness of Awadhi cuisine, she adds, “I have been writing about the vegetarian food of Awadh for as long as I have been writing. I also try to showcase as much of it as I can through my curations at 'Lucknow with Anubhuti'. To be able to bring this food to life in a land so far away from Awadh is rewarding enough in the first place. The region, especially Lucknow, is always perceived to be a meat-heavy region, but the truth is that we have the most beautiful vegetables, fruit and grains, and all of that is celebrated in our food, be it vegetarian or non-vegetarian.”

For Krishna, the role of women in food goes far beyond the act of cooking. “For centuries, women have been the ones to take ahead the culinary legacy of their families, be it the family of their birth or the family they adopt after their marriage. In doing so, each one of them also preserves the culinary wisdom of the land and passes it on to their children. And so, I strongly feel women are the real keepers of home food, or as we now say, regional cuisines.”

The Language of Culinary Legacy

Sheeba Iqbal 

From August 15, Sheeba Iqbal takes the helm at Waarsa with a decadent, emotional menu that brings together two very different but equally powerful culinary influences: her mother’s nourishing meals and the lavish indulgence of her marital haveli. She says, “Balancing the practical simplicity of my mother's kitchen with the rich traditions of my marital haveli's cuisine is a delightful challenge. I blend the best of both worlds, combining the warmth and comfort of home-cooked meals with the opulence and flair of traditional Awadhi cuisine. It's a beautiful fusion that reflects my journey and heritage.”

Her menu is unapologetically rich and festive, featuring dishes like Ghutwan Kebab, Mutton Yakhni Pulao, Chicken Qorma, Achhari Machli, and Baingan ka Raita with Besan ki Tikiyan, a rustic favourite. For dessert: Qiwami Siwayin, Zarda, and Ande ka Halwa, a sweet finale that speaks of both celebration and continuity.

It is a popular belief that, unlike professional kitchens, home cooking often relies on feel and intuition. To this, she says, "In many ways, home cooking does rely on ‘feel’ and intuition, especially when it comes to traditional or cultural recipes passed down through generations. Home cooks often develop a sense of familiarity with ingredients, proportions and techniques, allowing them to adjust seasoning, texture and flavour. I wait for my ancestors to say, 'That's enough, child.'"

Her cooking at Waarsa is a labour of love, intuitive yet grounded. “Adapting heirloom recipes for Waarsa was a labour of love, where I infused traditional Awadhi flavours with modern techniques, creating a culinary experience that honours heritage while embracing innovation. The result is a timeless blend of the past and present, showcasing the elegance and depth of Awadhi cuisine.”

And for those who’ve only experienced Awadhi cuisine through the lens of meat-heavy daawats, Iqbal offers a correction. “One of the most misunderstood or overlooked aspects of Awadhi cuisine is its subtlety and nuance. Often, people associate Awadhi food with rich, heavy and overly spiced dishes, but in reality, it’s about balance and layering flavours. The delicate use of kewra, rosewater and saffron, along with slow-cooking techniques, creates a depth that’s often missed. Awadhi cuisine is as much about restraint as it is about richness. The art lies in the subtlety of blending spices and allowing ingredients to shine without overpowering them.”

Beyond The Plate

As Women of Awadh unfolds at Waarsa, what emerges is a deeply personal act of storytelling. “As a custodian of this culinary heritage, I hope diners take away the warmth, hospitality and rich cultural legacy of Awadh,” says Iqbal. “Through the Women of Awadh experience, I want them to not only savour the flavours but also connect with the stories, traditions and emotions that define our cuisine. It's about sharing the soul of Awadh, one dish at a time.” Krishna joins in, "Via this showcase, I hope to bring forth the restraint of our home kitchens, the delicacy of our home food and the nuances of our cooking that go far beyond the popular clichés surrounding Awadhi food."

Dates: August 2 – 24, 2025 (Chef Anubhuti Krishna's pop up from August 2-10 and Chef Sheeba Iqbal's pop up from August 15-24)
Timings: 12 – 4 pm | 7 pm – 1 am
Where: Waarsa, NCPA Gate 2, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400021
For Reservations: +91 95949 43555