48 Hours in Manila – From A Travel Writer's Sketches

It’s a bright, humid morning in the Philippines, and my friend and I are cooling off with Pandan and popcorn-flavoured iced lattes from Oliver’s Coffee, a grab-and-go truck we discovered during our just-over-two-hour drive from Batangas to Metro Manila. After spending four peaceful nights at a palm-fringed Filipino wellness sanctuary nestled in Lipa’s lush mountains, we are ready for a stark contrast: the hectic pace of Manila, the Southeast Asian country’s capital and one of the most densely populated areas in the world, with around 45,000 people per square kilometre.

First Impressions Of Manila 

Driving on the highway and into the heart of the city, Manila’s opening scenes are composed of a cinematic blend of modernistic skyscrapers, sleek glass towers, and time-worn, low-slung concrete buildings with patched-up roofs, dangling wires, and faded, peeling paint. The soundscape is just as vivid: people conversing in Tagalog, the sizzle of meat and the clatter of utensils from street food vendors, pop music from corner stores, and unusual honking of the flamboyant jeepneys as they weave through the traffic. While my friend seems overwhelmed, I am oddly feeling at home. Perhaps, it’s my Mumbai roots—another city that is maddening and magnetic in equal measure. 

Soon, we check into Herald Suites Polaris, a budget-friendly boutique hotel in Población—a historic neighbourhood in Makati, the upscale financial district and one of sixteen cities that make up Metro Manila. Its unassuming façade hides warm, yellow-lit interiors with wooden furniture, Machuca tiles in earthy colours, and Art Deco elevator grills. There is a vintage charm and an Asia meets Mediterranean aesthetic that pleases our eyes and soul, immediately putting us at ease. 

Reflection And Relaxation At Rizal Park 

With only 48 hours to immerse ourselves in Manila’s many offerings, we grab our hats and sunglasses (much needed to battle the scorching sun) and set out to explore the city. Our urban escapade begins at Rizal Park, along Roxas Boulevard. Originally known as Luneta, it is a perfect place for an afternoon wander. Here, we are greeted by a 46m flagpole fronting the Rizal Monument, which holds the mortal remains of the Philippine national hero Dr Jose Rizal. Walking the 60-hectare park’s tree-lined paths, we see life-size bronze statues depicting Rizal’s dramatic execution by the Spanish army in 1896 (exactly where it took place) and a granite plaque inscribed with Rizal’s Mi Ultimo Adios (My Last Farewell). We find ourselves deeply moved by the silent yet powerful symbols of the Philippines’ fight for independence.

As we exit the park’s northwestern gate, we see a line of chatty, local Masajistas with their plastic chairs and stools, some with a makeshift cardboard mat, and mentholated balms and oils, inviting the passersby for a shoulder and a back rub or the traditional Filipino Hilot massage for as low as 100 pesos. 

Feeding The Appetite For Art 

We ditch the idea of a pavement spa treatment and instead take a 10-minute walk to the National Museum of Fine Arts, set along Padre Burgos Avenue. The long queue moves rather quickly, and we are soon inside the restored Old Legislative Building from the early 1900s. Spanning four floors are 29 galleries showcasing everything from abstract and fine art to sculptures and photographs by local and international artists. Most of our time is spent admiring works of Filipino masters and national awardees like Juan Luna, Ang Kiukok and Carlos “Botong” Francisco. I am drawn to the ones that chronicle Filipino identity and quotidian life. The art lover in me wants to spend the whole day here, but we're famished. 

A popular local saying, “You’re never far from a mall in Manila,” which is quite right. An American influence, the mall culture is deeply rooted in the social and economic fabric of the Philippines. Filipinos not only shop but also eat, date, and pray in the air-conditioned havens, which offer respite from the often hot and rainy weather. Arriving at the bustling SM Mall of Manila, we are impressed by the sheer variety of dining options that range from fast-food chains like McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King and the homegrown, omnipresent Jollibee to pizzerias, ramen bars and milk tea stations, and specialised eateries serving everything from Korean BBQ and dim sums to doughnuts and waffles. 

A Taste Of Filipino Flavours 

We work up an appetite with a Mango Pistachio Frozen Yoghurt from the Spanish outlet, Llaollao, before grabbing a table for two at Manam Comfort Filipino. From a menu boasting a wide array of classic and fusion local specialities, we settle for flavourful and filling Shiitake and Tofu Kare-Kare, a vegan twist to the rich, nutty Filipino stew with a thick, sweet-savoury peanut sauce. The original version comes with slow-cooked oxtail, beef tripe, or pork hocks. Ours is rich with banana heart, pechay (Filipino bok choy), tofu, and sitaw (string beans), which we polish off alongside rice and chilled, refreshing Ube (purple yam) Sago Shake. 

It's late evening, and we wish to head back to the hotel for some well-earned rest. As we make our way across the mall, we see a row of jeepneys, and some drivers calling out the destinations. Every jeepney has a fixed route. These eclectic vehicles are essentially American military jeeps left behind after World War II, ingeniously revamped by Filipinos into what looks like folk art in motion. Painted in chrome and eye-popping colours, each minibus wears a unique personality with funky stickers, fantasy characters, hip-hop graphics, and religious iconography. Most drivers don’t speak English, but we eventually find one who smiles and suggests we hop into the back of his jeepney and transfer after a few stops to arrive in Poblacion; there is no direct ride from the SM Mall to our hotel.

Riding On Manila's Rolling Icons  

The jeepney’s LED-lit interior feels more like a mobile disco than a mode of public transit. “Cheri Cheri Lady” blasts from the speakers as our sixty-something driver grooves to the beat, every bit the laid-back DJ of his street party. There is no ticketing or card system, so we pass a few pesos as suggested on the laminated fare card. As the ride continues, the vehicle fills up, elbows brushing, knees knocking, and even a few daring passengers clinging to the back rails. We realise jeepneys are vital arteries of the city—reliable, affordable, and deeply woven into the daily lives of students, workers, vendors, and families. 

Back in Población—once a quiet colonial town centre, later a red-light district, and now Manila’s hipster hangout with gritty edges—we’re ready for a nighttime adventure. The lively, compact neighbourhood is overflowing with karaoke, live music, and salsa clubs, speakeasies, taverns offering both indoor and outdoor seating, laid-back art cafes, and chic restaurants serving international cuisines. One standout is Filling Station Bar and Café, popular for its 1950s-themed retro décor and American staples like burgers, steaks, pasta, nachos, sandwiches, as well as Filipino dishes like Bulalo (hearty beef shank soup). While bar hopping is a fun way to explore Población, we choose to spend the evening at Bourbon New Orleans, one of those places where the music is loud, the energy is high, and no one’s trying too hard. Just cold beer, a live band, and good company.

The Sights, Sounds, And Smells Of The Quinta Market

The following morning, we indulge in a slow, leisurely continental breakfast at our hotel’s cosy Aurora Lobby Café, watching life roll by outside the window. Soon after, we hop into a taxi headed for Quiapo Market, also known as Quinta Market and Fishport. Originally established in 1851 during the Spanish colonial era, it began as a marketplace for Quiapo’s affluent residents and has since evolved into one of Manila’s busiest commercial hubs. Today, the market buzzes with the energy of over 300 vendors and street hawkers, their umbrellas, tarps, and carts spilling into every inch of space around Quiapo Church, Plaza Miranda, and Hidalgo and Villalobos Streets. It’s a one-stop destination for everything—from the freshest local produce and herbs to second-hand clothes, accessories, electronics, and every imaginable item of everyday use. Walking through the market offers an unfiltered glimpse into Manila’s sights, sounds, warmth, and humour.

Quiapo Market is also a paradise for street food lovers. Stalls brim with offerings like fresh coconut water and dragon juice, alongside classic Filipino snacks such as Kwek-Kwek (deep-fried quail eggs), Lumpia (crispy spring rolls with both savoury and sweet fillings), Halo-Halo (a shaved ice dessert layered with tropical fruits, ice cream, and coconut-based jelly candies), Sotanghon (a comforting chicken noodle soup), and more adventurous fare like Balut (a fertilized duck egg) and Isaw (grilled chicken intestines). 

Where Manila's Past And Present Collide

From here, a short jeepney ride transports us to Intramuros - the centuries-old Walled City built by the Spanish colonisers in the late 1500s. The cobbled streets, heritage churches, colonial buildings, and horse-drawn Kalesas feel frozen in time. We visit Manila Cathedral, a structure rebuilt many times after natural disasters and war, and sit quietly beneath its vaulted ceilings. Its Neo-Romanesque arches, stained-glass windows, and Italian marble altar radiate elegance—but it’s the quiet simplicity of the space that we love most. Just a few footsteps away is Fort Santiago, a military fortress and prison dating back to the 16th century. We pass through the baroque stone arch gate and stroll around Plaza de Armas, through dungeons and into the Rizal Shrine Museum, where José Rizal was held before his execution. On display are his writings, books, and personal belongings as well as a replica of his jail cell. It’s both humbling and inspiring.

Outside, at one of the stalls under a mango tree, we quench our thirst with a glass of Black Gulaman, a popular Filipino sweet beverage made from grass jelly and a brown sugar syrup (arnibal) and topped with ice cubes. It’s slightly bitter and earthy in flavour; a strange yet satisfying brew. We also take a quick stop at the nearby Beanleaf Café to charge our phones and escape the heat for a bit. 

Later in the night, we decide to explore Binondo, Manila’s historic Chinatown and the oldest in the world. We expect it to be buzzing with food stalls, heritage shrines, and a swirl of Chinese-Filipino culture. But when we arrive, its lantern-lined streets are quiet, with most shops and restaurants already closed. We quickly realise that Binondo is best explored during the day or early evening, when the streets come alive with vendors, the scent of freshly steamed dumplings, locals in prayer, food tour groups, and the vibrant hum of daily life.

Back in familiar Makati, we spend our final night at a casual street-facing bar, where mellow music plays and words feel unnecessary. Reflecting on our time in Manila, we realise it’s a city of extremes and contrasts. With its layered colonial past, Manila is where history meets innovation, and chaos mingles with creativity in close quarters. Yet, beneath the disorder lies a distinct rhythm—an energy that’s uniquely its own.