A Taste Of History In Andalucía

It’s a hot summer’s day in Córdoba, southern Spain—a city famed for its magnificent Mezquita, or mosque-cathedral. After hours of wandering its cobblestone streets, fragrant with orange blossoms, I find respite at a charming patio restaurant nestled in the old town.

The first dish I’m served is a creamy, salmon-hued cold soup called salmorejo. I fall in love instantly. Comforting and perfectly suited to the warm weather, it’s made from ripe tomatoes, garlic, and bread, and topped with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. The garnishes vary—sometimes it’s topped with green apple bits, ham, or boiled eggs. At times, it’s served simply with olive oil and a sprinkle of paprika.

The tradition of mashing food dates back to the Neolithic era, but when the Romans arrived in this region, wheat entered the picture—used in bread, soups, and porridges. Mazamorra, an earlier version of salmorejo made with breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic, vinegar, and salt, was once fed to Roman soldiers.

Tomatoes only arrived in Spain after Christopher Columbus's 1492 voyage to the Americas. Eventually, they found their way into mazamorra, transforming its colour from white to red and giving birth to the salmorejo we know today. Córdoba even has a street named after the soup, with an ancient recipe inscribed on a ceramic tile affixed to a wall.

Andalucía’s unique blend of Moorish, Mediterranean, and Atlantic influences has shaped its cuisine, with dishes like salmorejo bearing witness. Described by my local guide, Trinidad Blanco Martinez, as gazpacho’s heartier, lesser-known cousin, salmorejo originated as sustenance for Roman legions—and remains a staple for large families even today. “It’s made from humble ingredients, within easy reach of peasants, and arose from the need for simple, affordable meals in hot weather,” she explains. Often, stale bread is used to thicken the soup.

Every family prepares it differently, ranging in texture from a thick purée to a creamy soup or even a sauce. As Almudena Villegas notes in her book on salmorejo: “Salmorejo has become the great river into which other great protagonists of Mediterranean food have poured their finest: golden olive oil, aromatic garlic, and breads of all kinds, along with the modern, transatlantic tomato and pungent vinegar.”

I learn to make this beloved dish at a cooking class with renowned local chef Matías Vega at his restaurant, Alcazaba de las Torres, in the nearby town of Cañete de las Torres. A passionate advocate for traditional Spanish cuisine, Chef Matías demonstrates both the traditional method—with a mortar and pestle—and the modern version using a mixer.

“Salmorejo is a testament to the resourcefulness of Andalucian grandmothers, who had to feed large families on tight budgets,” he explains. The bread used is pan de telera, soaked in water and torn into pieces. The tomatoes are peeled, hand-mashed, and strained to remove seeds. The pulp, along with bread, garlic, salt, and sherry vinegar, is blended while olive oil is slowly drizzled in to form a creamy emulsion. It’s then chilled before serving, often garnished with hard-boiled eggs or ham.

Extra virgin Olive oil is the magic ingredient in this soup, and has to be top-notch,” says Chef Matias. He learned to make the soup from his grandfather who prepared food for his workers in his rural hacienda and used to make it traditionally with the mortar and pestle placed between his legs while sitting down. “Gastronomy is after all the landscape on a plate,” says Chef Matias with a smile. “Good quality red tomatoes, a silky garlic clove, and day’s old bread come together to create this magic. To make salmorejo ahead of time, it is best to prepare the ingredients separately and store them in the refrigerator until ready to assemble and serve.”

After the class, we enjoy a leisurely lunch of freshly made salmorejo, served with bread and accompaniments like green apple and ham, which add unexpected depth. What began as a frugal dish born of necessity is now found in tapas bars, upscale restaurants, and family gatherings across the region. Served as a refreshing starter or even a main course, Salmorejo proves that sometimes the simplest of ingredients is all you need to create a hearty, tasty dish that sustains and can be a meal by itself.