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Where To Eat And Drink In Tbilisi

From leafy courtyards to industrial-chic lofts, Tbilisi’s dining scene is as diverse as its storied past and youthful present.

| Kunal Bhatia and Shuvajit Payne
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Photograph: (Photo by Neil Sengupta on Unsplash )

Lying at the crossroads of the old and the new, the east and the west, Georgia is easily the most appealing destination in the Caucasus. While centuries of heritage and culture, charming regional towns with laid-back vibes, and the stunning natural beauty of the countryside are rewarding, it’s the food that makes us want to go back for more. The capital, Tbilisi, is a hotspot for remarkable dining, having embraced pan-Georgian culinary traditions on the one hand and also welcoming a wave of contemporary creativity on the other. Grab a table at any (or all) of these places and you won’t be disappointed.

Café Leila

Tbilisi
Tucked along a pedestrian alley opposite Tbilisi’s oldest church, Café Leila boasts orient-inspired interiors, having once been a Middle Eastern sweet shop during Soviet times. Apart from a few fish options, the menu is entirely vegetarian, perfect for sampling traditional Georgian dishes. Begin with the gobi, a generous wooden platter of appetisers including minced vegetable balls, cornbread, cheese, pickles, spreads, and seasonal sides. For mains, try the bazhe (fried cauliflower in walnut sauce with grits) or the hearty lobio (slow-cooked beans in a clay pot) from the Kakheti region.

Littera

Tucked within the garden courtyard of the 120-year-old Writers’ House, award-winning Littera needs no signboard for those in the know. Founded by celebrated chef Tekuna Gachechiladze, it serves modern Georgian cuisine with seasonal flair, ideal for a relaxed brunch or romantic evening. We recommend the seabass with green pea purée or the tenelli cheese and cherry tomato salad for a dish that matches the verdant setting. On cooler nights, opt for the lamb chakapuli (stew) or pork belly with dogwood sauce. End with a fluffy Napoleon pastry or caramelised peach with mascarpone.

Pulp

This family-owned café gets its priorities right: baked treats, great coffee, and a thoughtful wine list. The iced brews are perfect for summer, and a designated laptop area makes it freelancer-friendly. But it’s the sweet and savoury snacks that shine—think hummus and poached egg tartines, pesto and bell pepper Pain Suisse, cardamom buns, oat and raisin cookies, and rum-vanilla cannelés. Trust us, take a few to go for a mid-exploration reward.

Café Stamba

Reviving old buildings is a Tbilisi speciality, and no one does it quite like Stamba. Housed in a former Soviet publishing house, this airy café marries industrial grunge with vintage chic. The all-day menu covers local and international comfort food, with standouts like cheesy Adjarian khachapuri, deconstructed kebabs, kvari dumplings, and pecan tarts. The open kitchen puts the chefs on display, while a vertical farm on-site supplies the café with fresh organic produce year-round.

Kneina

This family-run restaurant in the heart of Old Tbilisi, just off Gudiashvili Square, is known for its warm hospitality and focus on Georgian cuisine and wine. Highlights include the ajapsandali (eggplant, bell pepper, and mixed vegetable salad), tolma (cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat and served with yoghurt), and a variety of khachapuri from different regions. Pair your meal with the house wine, and don’t be surprised if Nana, the lady of the house, tops up your glass more than once. Choose between alfresco kerbside seating or dining indoors, surrounded by vintage antiques in what was once the family home.

Fabrika

Once a Soviet sewing factory, Fabrika is now a lively creative space with cafés, bars, stores, a hostel, and co-working studios. While it leans hipster, all kinds of visitors feel at home here. The courtyard is the hub of activity, ideal for people-watching over chacha from Saamuri Wine Bar or a slice of wood-fired prosciutto and funghi pizza from Popolo. Nearby options include drinks and snacks at Moulin Électrique, gourmet burgers at PIPES, or a sit-down Georgian meal at Tone, all conveniently located in the same courtyard.

Drunken Poets Syndicate

DPS, founded by alumni of Tbilisi hotspot Cocktail Factory, is a stylish space for inventive cocktails, occasional performances, and boozy workshops. An oversized mosaic crowns the dimly lit interiors, but the terrace is our favourite spot. Skip the classics and go bold with house originals. The Cabbage (jalapeño-distilled Milagro with agave red cabbage syrup) and Beetroot (mezcal with cacao liqueur and fermented beetroot) are conversation starters, but for something truly unexpected, ask for the Khinkali cocktail, a daring mix of vodka distilled with Georgian dumplings, coriander cordial, and burnt black pepper.

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