Seasonal Maharashtrian Ingredients Get A Fine Dining Twist At Luv, A Cosy Restaurant In Andheri

Though I’ve stayed in Andheri for a big part of my life, I’d often gravitate towards Bandra and South Mumbai for dining due to the numerous options. That’s changed recently, thanks to a wave of under-the-radar gems, like Luv, a restaurant run by brothers Akash and Luv Deshpande.

At Luv, comforting and familiar regional Indian flavours take centre stage, presented with the finesse and restraint of modern dining. Chef Akash, trained in kitchens across Canada and Doha, brings a sense of global technique to deeply nostalgic dishes. At the heart of this restaurant is comfort food that is reasonably priced, and Akash’s passion for painting. His artistic sensibility also makes its way into the space—he paints the artwork on the walls himself. One standout? The signature Starry Night dessert is a tribute to Van Gogh’s iconic painting.

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It’s been six months since the duo started Luv, and they are now ready to offer something more intimate: Tasting Thursdays, a 10-seater weekly dining experience. Its debut edition is titled Unhala, which translates to summer in Marathi and takes guests on a poetic, ingredient-led journey through their childhoods. Expect seven comforting, soulful dishes reimagined with a fine dining lens, each one echoing the flavours they grew up with at home. My partner and I were lucky enough to be some of the first people to sample it. 

So, What’s On The Menu? 

The Deshpande brothers begin by offering me some naachni papad and a kokum and coconut drink, which is much needed in Mumbai’s humid weather. Instead of the usual mint leaf, curry leaves are used to add a different flavour to this beverage, and trust me, I truly believe the team should bottle these and sell them. One sip in, and I could already sense their creativity. I looked forward to the meal that was about to be served. 

My partner and I took a seat by the chef’s counter, where we could see all the action. Our meal kicked off with Fanas—jackfruit (sourced from the chef’s backyard) tucked into a soft bao. It’s a clever blend of regional produce and Asian techniques.

The next course featured dried bombil served on brioche toast, presented like art. The toast sits atop a painted canvas board designed to resemble a beach, with seashells made from dried bombil butter, bombil papad hanging like a beachside clothesline. It’s a Konkan coastline on a plate. The vegetarian counterpart—aloo stem tacos—was equally memorable. I’ve only eaten this vegetable as patra, at home, but here, it’s dressed up with East Indian masalas sourced from Vasai and served in taco form. It was fun, flavourful, and a fresh take on the humble vegetable.

The next course, Know Your Roots, is a trio of root vegetables like carrot, beetroot, and potato brought to life with the chef’s twist on a classic beurre blanc sauce. Elevated yet earthy, the plating stood out—the vegetables were smartly stuffed in a dough with lots of herbs and baked, giving a lovely flavour to the vegetables. 

Then came Kombdi, a take on the beloved Maharashtrian kombdi vade. A chicken roulade topped with papad made of chicken fat is served alongside traditional vade. It reimagines the Deshpandes’ family recipe while staying rooted in its essence. Though this dish is plated in fine-dining style, its flavours hit home.

The veg version? Mothi mirchi—green chillies filled with sweet corn, resting on a bed of alu leaf saag. Sweet, spicy, deep green. A beautiful contrast of flavours and textures.

A palate cleanser followed: a karvand and gondhoraj lemon popsicle that brought back memories of childhood golas. My partner leaned over and said, “This and the kokum drink should be part of a Luv Summer Care Package.” I couldn’t agree more.

Next up was Sea Bass, topped with pickled radish and purple cabbage arranged in a way to resemble fish scales. It was paired with a light beurre blanc that was comforting and balanced.

But it was the vegetarian version that truly surprised me—crispy suran (yam) layered over soft sabudana, a delicious textural contrast I wasn’t expecting.

The final savoury course featured duck paired with a karvand sauce that cuts beautifully through the richness of the meat. For vegetarians, it was pumpkin sheet rolls stuffed with brinjal served over a puddle of red wine sauce. I’m not a fan of brinjal, but serve it to me like this and I’ll happily change my mind.

And finally, dessert was a delicate summer cake made with tadgola, coconut mousse, and rajnakh, a berry sourced from Alibaug. It tasted like chikoo with a mango aftertaste. I could eat these berries by the handful. Light and tropical, the dessert was just the right note to end on.

ELLE Gourmet’s Verdict

As someone who’s half Maharashtrian, this menu felt deeply personal. After a long workday, I don’t crave extravagance; I crave comfort and something homely. And that’s exactly what Unhala delivers. It’s like a warm hug. Yes, it’s plated like fine dining, but don’t expect tiny portions. The Deshpandes want to feed you like family, and it shows. The flavours are rich, the stories are real, and the experience? Unmissable.

So if you’re looking to taste a Maharashtrian summer on a plate, book your seat at Luv on a Thursday. I, for one, can’t wait for what’s next: Pausa, the upcoming monsoon edition that promises to spotlight seasonal produce from across the state. Count me in.

Address: 14-16, Sterling Apts, Sundervan Complex Road, Shashtri Nagar, Lokhandwala Complex, Andheri West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400053 

Availability: Ten seats only; every Thursday

Price for two: INR 2999 for non-vegetarian and INR 2799 for vegetarian